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Baby Clothing 41 rounds No account, no download

Mint unicorn baby dress set with a fan shell skirt

A DK yarn baby layette with fan shell (shell) stitch, a peter pan collar and scallop trim. US and UK stitch terms given.

Mint unicorn baby dress set with a fan shell skirt
Skill
Intermediate
Time
11-17 hours
Yarn weight
DK
Hook
3.5 mm

Intermediate

What the original write-up called it. Nothing here is graded again.

DK

What the sample was worked in. Any weight works; the size moves with it.

11-17 hours

What the original page reckoned. Your own pace is the one that matters.

About this pattern

This pattern produces a five-piece newborn layette: a pink bodice with cap sleeves and a mint peter pan collar, a fan shell skirt threaded with ribbon and unicorn buttons, matching booties, and a headband with a bow. It uses DK weight yarn on a 3.5 mm hook and takes an estimated 11 to 17 hours from foundation chain to finished set, sized for newborn to 3 months.

This layette set builds its texture from the shell stitch family, worked here as five double crochets (UK treble crochet) fanned into a single stitch and flanked by anchoring single crochets. The same scallop repeats along the peter pan collar, the cap sleeve cuffs and the skirt hem, tying the accessories to the bodice. In the skirt itself the shells expand into a fuller fan shell pattern worked in rounds, letting the mint yarn show its drape without any need for blocking wires.

The bodice starts at the neckline and works top down in rows of single crochet, with chained bridges introduced partway through the rows to mark the two sleeve openings before a seamed centre back closes the garment. Cap sleeves and the fan shell skirt are then worked directly onto the finished bodice edges, so the dress builds as one continuous piece rather than several flat panels sewn together afterwards.

Materials

  • Color A (Pink): approximately 200 yards of DK weight yarn
  • Color B (Mint or Seafoam): approximately 250 yards of DK weight yarn
  • US size E-4 / 3.5 mm crochet hook
  • Yarn needle for weaving in ends
  • Scissors
  • 2 unicorn novelty buttons (approximately 5/8 inch)
  • Sewing needle and matching thread
  • Safety pin or bodkin needle for threading ribbon
  • Scheepjes Catona in mercerized cotton creates a dressier, stiffer drape that holds the collar and skirt shape without blocking.
  • 18 stitches and 20 rows = 4 inches in single crochet worked flat using Color A and your E-4 hook.

The list is the pattern's own wording.

Instructions

Every round is printed as the pattern wrote it, brackets and all. Open the key beside a round to see only the short forms that round uses.

Fan Shell Stitch

This creates the gorgeous lacy texture throughout the skirt. Each fan consists of 5 double crochets worked into a single stitch, flanked by single crochets that anchor the fans. Here is how it works:

  1. Round 1

    Setup, RS Sc in first st. Sk 2 sts, 5 dc in next st, sk 2 sts, sc in next st. Rep from * to end.

    Key5
    rep
    repeat
    sc
    single crochet: insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops
    dc
    double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop (3 loops), yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops
    sk
    skip
    RS
    right side
  2. Round 2

    (WS): Ch 3, turn. 2 dc in first sc. Sc in center dc of fan, 5 dc in next sc. Rep to last fan. Sc in center dc of last fan. 3 dc in last sc.

    Key5
    rep
    repeat
    ch
    chain: wrap yarn over hook, pull through loop
    sc
    single crochet: insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops
    dc
    double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop (3 loops), yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops
    WS
    wrong side
  3. Round 3

    (RS): Ch 1, turn. Sc in first dc. Sk 2 sts, 5 dc in next sc, sk 2 sts, sc in center dc of fan. Rep to end, placing final sc in top of tch.Rows 2 and 3 form the pattern. Once you get the rhythm, it flows naturally.

    Key7
    rep
    repeat
    tch
    turning chain
    ch
    chain: wrap yarn over hook, pull through loop
    sc
    single crochet: insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops
    dc
    double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop (3 loops), yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops
    sk
    skip
    RS
    right side

Part 1: Bodice (Top Down, Color A)

The bodice works back and forth in rows, starting at the neckline. A back opening runs along the center back.

Foundation Row: With Color A and E-4 hook, ch 62. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (61 sc)

  1. Round 1

    (WS): Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. (61 sc)

    Key3
    ch
    chain: wrap yarn over hook, pull through loop
    sc
    single crochet: insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops
    WS
    wrong side
  2. Round 2

    RS, neckline shaping Ch 1, turn. Sc in first 12 sts (left back panel), ch 3, sk 9 sts (left sleeve), sc in next 19 sts (front panel), ch 3, sk 9 sts (right sleeve), sc in last 12 sts (right back panel). (43 sc plus 6 ch = 49 working sts)

    Key4
    ch
    chain: wrap yarn over hook, pull through loop
    sc
    single crochet: insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops
    sk
    skip
    RS
    right side
  3. Round 3

    Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st and ch across. (49 sc)

    Key2
    ch
    chain: wrap yarn over hook, pull through loop
    sc
    single crochet: insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops
  4. Round 4

    Ch 1, turn. Sc in first 2 sts. Inc in next st. Sc in next 4 sts, inc in next st. Rep to last 2 sts. Sc in last 2 sts. (57 sc)

    Key4
    inc
    increase: work 2 single crochets in the same stitch
    rep
    repeat
    ch
    chain: wrap yarn over hook, pull through loop
    sc
    single crochet: insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops
  5. Round 5

    Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. (57 sc)

    Key2
    ch
    chain: wrap yarn over hook, pull through loop
    sc
    single crochet: insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops
  6. Round 6

    Ch 1, turn. Sc in first 2 sts. Inc in next st. Sc in next 5 sts, inc in next st. Rep to last 3 sts. Sc in last 3 sts. (65 sc)

    Key4
    inc
    increase: work 2 single crochets in the same stitch
    rep
    repeat
    ch
    chain: wrap yarn over hook, pull through loop
    sc
    single crochet: insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops
  7. Round 7

    through 10: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. (65 sc)

    Key2
    ch
    chain: wrap yarn over hook, pull through loop
    sc
    single crochet: insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops
  8. Round 11

    Eyelet row for ribbon Ch 3 (counts as dc), turn. Sk 1 st. Dc in next st, ch 1, sk 1 st. Rep to last 2 sts. Dc in each of last 2 sts. (34 dc plus 31 ch-1 sps)

    Key4
    rep
    repeat
    ch
    chain: wrap yarn over hook, pull through loop
    dc
    double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop (3 loops), yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops
    sk
    skip
  9. Round 12

    Ch 1, turn. Sc in first dc. Sc in ch-1 sp, sc in next dc. Rep to end. Sc in top of tch. (65 sc)Checkpoint: After Row 12, your bodice should measure approximately 2.75 inches from neckline to waist.

    Key6
    rep
    repeat
    tch
    turning chain
    ch
    chain: wrap yarn over hook, pull through loop
    sc
    single crochet: insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops
    dc
    double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop (3 loops), yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops
    sp
    space

Part 4: Cap Sleeves (Color B)

Right Sleeve: With Color B and RS facing, attach yarn to the underarm chain bridge at the right armhole. Work sc evenly around the entire armhole opening, picking up 9 sts from the skipped row sts and 3 sts from the ch-3 bridge. Join with sl st to first sc. (12 sc)

  1. Round 1

    Ch 2. Hdc in each st around. Join with sl st to first hdc. (12 hdc)

    Key3
    sl st
    slip stitch: insert hook, yarn over, pull through stitch and loop on hook in one motion
    hdc
    half double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop (3 loops), yarn over, pull through all 3 loops
    ch
    chain: wrap yarn over hook, pull through loop
  2. Round 2

    Ch 1. Sl st in next st, sk 1 st, 5 dc in next st, sk 1 st. Rep 3 times. Join with sl st. Fasten off. (3 scallop shells)

    Key5
    sl st
    slip stitch: insert hook, yarn over, pull through stitch and loop on hook in one motion
    rep
    repeat
    ch
    chain: wrap yarn over hook, pull through loop
    dc
    double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop (3 loops), yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops
    sk
    skip

Left Sleeve: Work same as Right Sleeve.

Part 5: Peter Pan Collar (Color B, Made Separately)

Foundation: With Color B, ch 64. Hdc in 3rd ch from hook and in each ch across. (62 hdc)

  1. Round 1

    and 2: Ch 2, turn. Hdc in each st across. (62 hdc) Outer Scallop Edge: Ch 1, do not turn. Working along the outer edge, sl st in first st, sk 1 st, 5 dc in next st, sk 1 st. Rep across to end. Fasten off. (approximately 15 scallop shells)Inner Edge: Attach yarn to foundation chain edge. Work 1 row of sl st across to stabilize. Fasten off.Attaching: Align center of collar with center front neckline. Whipstitch inner edge to bodice neckline, working outward toward each side. Collar terminates approximately 1 inch from each back edge.

    Key6
    sl st
    slip stitch: insert hook, yarn over, pull through stitch and loop on hook in one motion
    hdc
    half double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop (3 loops), yarn over, pull through all 3 loops
    rep
    repeat
    ch
    chain: wrap yarn over hook, pull through loop
    dc
    double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop (3 loops), yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops
    sk
    skip

Part 7: Booties (Make 2, Color B)

Sole Foundation: Ch 10.

  1. Round 1

    Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 7 chs, 4 sc in last ch. Working back along other side: sc in next 7 chs, 3 sc in first ch. Join with sl st. (22 sc)

    Key3
    sl st
    slip stitch: insert hook, yarn over, pull through stitch and loop on hook in one motion
    ch
    chain: wrap yarn over hook, pull through loop
    sc
    single crochet: insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops
  2. Round 2

    Ch 1. Inc in first 2 sts. Sc in next 7 sts. Inc in next 4 sts. Sc in next 7 sts. Inc in next 2 sts. Join. (30 sc)

    Key3
    inc
    increase: work 2 single crochets in the same stitch
    ch
    chain: wrap yarn over hook, pull through loop
    sc
    single crochet: insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops
  3. Round 3

    Ch 1. Inc in next st, sc in next st. Twice. Sc in next 7 sts. Inc in next st, sc in next st. 4 times. Sc in next 7 sts. Inc in next st, sc in next st. Twice. Join. (38 sc)

    Key3
    inc
    increase: work 2 single crochets in the same stitch
    ch
    chain: wrap yarn over hook, pull through loop
    sc
    single crochet: insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops
  4. Round 4

    (BLO): Ch 1. Working in back loop only, sc in each st around. Join. (38 sc)

    Key3
    BLO
    back loop only
    ch
    chain: wrap yarn over hook, pull through loop
    sc
    single crochet: insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops
  5. Round 5

    Ch 1. Sc in each st around. Join. (38 sc)

    Key2
    ch
    chain: wrap yarn over hook, pull through loop
    sc
    single crochet: insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops
  6. Round 6

    Ch 1. Sc in first 12 sts. Sc2tog 7 times. Sc in last 12 sts. Join. (31 sc)

    Key3
    sc2tog
    single crochet 2 together (decrease): insert hook in next st, pull up loop, insert hook in following st, pull up loop (3 loops), yarn over, pull through all 3
    ch
    chain: wrap yarn over hook, pull through loop
    sc
    single crochet: insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops
  7. Round 7

    Ch 1. Sc in first 10 sts. Sc2tog 5 times. Sc in last 11 sts. Join. (26 sc)

    Key3
    sc2tog
    single crochet 2 together (decrease): insert hook in next st, pull up loop, insert hook in following st, pull up loop (3 loops), yarn over, pull through all 3
    ch
    chain: wrap yarn over hook, pull through loop
    sc
    single crochet: insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops
  8. Round 8

    Ch 1. Sc in first 9 sts. Sc2tog 4 times. Sc in last 9 sts. Join. (22 sc)

    Key3
    sc2tog
    single crochet 2 together (decrease): insert hook in next st, pull up loop, insert hook in following st, pull up loop (3 loops), yarn over, pull through all 3
    ch
    chain: wrap yarn over hook, pull through loop
    sc
    single crochet: insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops
  9. Round 9

    and 10: Ch 1. Sc in each st around. Join. (22 sc)

    Key2
    ch
    chain: wrap yarn over hook, pull through loop
    sc
    single crochet: insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops
  10. (22)
    Round 11

    Ch 1. Sc in next st, ch 1, sk 1 st. Rep 11 times. Join. (22 sts equivalent)

    Key4
    rep
    repeat
    ch
    chain: wrap yarn over hook, pull through loop
    sc
    single crochet: insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops
    sk
    skip
  11. Round 12

    Ch 1. Sc in next sc, sc in ch-1 sp. Rep 9 times. Sc2tog twice. Join. (20 sc) Scallop Edging (Color A): Change to Color A. Sl st in next st, sk 1 st, 5 dc in next st, sk 1 st. Rep 5 times. Join. Fasten off. (5 scallop shells)Bootie Bow: Cut 6 inches of gold ribbon per bootie. Tie into bow and attach at center front of cuff.

    Key8
    sc2tog
    single crochet 2 together (decrease): insert hook in next st, pull up loop, insert hook in following st, pull up loop (3 loops), yarn over, pull through all 3
    sl st
    slip stitch: insert hook, yarn over, pull through stitch and loop on hook in one motion
    rep
    repeat
    ch
    chain: wrap yarn over hook, pull through loop
    sc
    single crochet: insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops
    dc
    double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop (3 loops), yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops
    sk
    skip
    sp
    space

Part 8: Headband (Color A)

Foundation: With Color A, ch 61. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (60 sc)

  1. Round 1

    through 3: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. (60 sc) Fasten off with long tail. Fold into loop and sl st short ends together to form headband ring.Crocheted Bow: Rectangle: Ch 16. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (15 sc)

    Key3
    sl st
    slip stitch: insert hook, yarn over, pull through stitch and loop on hook in one motion
    ch
    chain: wrap yarn over hook, pull through loop
    sc
    single crochet: insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops
  2. Round 1

    through 5: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. (15 sc) Make 2 rectangles. Stack together, pinch center to form bow shape. Wrap center tightly with 12 inches of Color A yarn 8 to 10 times. Tie off securely.Attach: Sew bow to center front of headband.

    Key2
    ch
    chain: wrap yarn over hook, pull through loop
    sc
    single crochet: insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops

Bodice Lower Section (Rows 13 to 22)

  1. Round 13

    through 17: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. (65 sc) Repeat for all 5 rows.

    Key2
    ch
    chain: wrap yarn over hook, pull through loop
    sc
    single crochet: insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops
  2. Round 18

    Ch 1, turn. Sc in first 3 sts. Inc in next st. Sc in next 6 sts, inc in next st. Rep 8 times. Sc in last 4 sts. (74 sc)

    Key4
    inc
    increase: work 2 single crochets in the same stitch
    rep
    repeat
    ch
    chain: wrap yarn over hook, pull through loop
    sc
    single crochet: insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops
  3. Round 19

    and 20: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. (74 sc)

    Key2
    ch
    chain: wrap yarn over hook, pull through loop
    sc
    single crochet: insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops
  4. Round 21

    Ch 1, turn. Sc in first 3 sts. Inc in next st. Sc in next 7 sts, inc in next st. Rep 8 times. Sc in last 3 sts. (83 sc)

    Key4
    inc
    increase: work 2 single crochets in the same stitch
    rep
    repeat
    ch
    chain: wrap yarn over hook, pull through loop
    sc
    single crochet: insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops
  5. Round 22

    Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. Do not fasten off. (83 sc) Checkpoint: Full bodice should measure approximately 5.5 inches from neckline to bottom.

    Key2
    ch
    chain: wrap yarn over hook, pull through loop
    sc
    single crochet: insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops

Part 3: Skirt (Color B, Fan Shell Stitch in Rounds)

  1. Round 1

    When working fan shell in the round, all rounds are right side rounds.

  2. Round 2

    Fan Round 1: Ch 1. Sc in first st. Sk 2 sts, 5 dc in next st, sk 2 sts, sc in next st. Rep 15 times. Join with sl st to first sc. (90 sts)

    Key6
    sl st
    slip stitch: insert hook, yarn over, pull through stitch and loop on hook in one motion
    rep
    repeat
    ch
    chain: wrap yarn over hook, pull through loop
    sc
    single crochet: insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops
    dc
    double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop (3 loops), yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops
    sk
    skip
  3. Round 3

    Fan Round 2: Ch 3, 2 dc in same st as join. Sc in center dc of next fan. 5 dc in next sc, sc in center dc of next fan. Rep 14 times. 2 dc in same st as first sl st join. Join with sl st to top of ch-3. (90 sts)

    Key5
    sl st
    slip stitch: insert hook, yarn over, pull through stitch and loop on hook in one motion
    rep
    repeat
    ch
    chain: wrap yarn over hook, pull through loop
    sc
    single crochet: insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops
    dc
    double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop (3 loops), yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops
  4. Round 4

    Fan Round 3: Ch 1. Sc in first st. Sk 2 sts, 5 dc in next sc, sk 2 sts, sc in center dc of fan. Rep 15 times. Join with sl st to first sc. (90 sts)Fan Rounds 4 through 7: Alternate Rounds 2 and 3.

    Key6
    sl st
    slip stitch: insert hook, yarn over, pull through stitch and loop on hook in one motion
    rep
    repeat
    ch
    chain: wrap yarn over hook, pull through loop
    sc
    single crochet: insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops
    dc
    double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop (3 loops), yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops
    sk
    skip
  5. Round 5

    Fan Round 8 (increase round): Ch 1. Sc in first sc. Sk 2 sts, 7 dc in next sc (instead of 5), sk 2 sts, sc in center dc of fan. Rep 15 times. Join with sl st to first sc. (120 sts)

    Key6
    sl st
    slip stitch: insert hook, yarn over, pull through stitch and loop on hook in one motion
    rep
    repeat
    ch
    chain: wrap yarn over hook, pull through loop
    sc
    single crochet: insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops
    dc
    double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop (3 loops), yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops
    sk
    skip
  6. Round 6

    This increase from 5-dc fans to 7-dc fans adds 30 stitches total, creating the flared A-line silhouette.

    Key1
    dc
    double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop (3 loops), yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops
  7. Round 7

    Fan Rounds 9 through 14: Continue working the 7-dc fan pattern, alternating between bridge rounds and fan rounds as established. (120 sts)

    Key1
    dc
    double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop (3 loops), yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops
  8. (5)
    Round 8

    Hem Edging Round (Color A): Change to Color A. Ch 1. Sl st in next st, sk 1 st, 5 dc in next st, sk 1 st. Rep around. Join with sl st to first sl st. Fasten off. (30 scallop shells)

    Key5
    sl st
    slip stitch: insert hook, yarn over, pull through stitch and loop on hook in one motion
    rep
    repeat
    ch
    chain: wrap yarn over hook, pull through loop
    dc
    double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop (3 loops), yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops
    sk
    skip

Part 6: Embellishments

Collar Bow: Cut 6 inches of gold satin ribbon and tie into a small bow. Attach to center front of collar at neckline.

Waistband Ribbon: Thread 24 inches of gold satin ribbon through the eyelet row using a safety pin, beginning and ending at center front. Tie into a bow. Attach unicorn buttons on each side of the bow.

Making up

  1. Step 1Seam the center back of the bodice together with slip stitches up the center back. This closes the dress back.
  2. Step 2Skirt Foundation Round: With RS facing and Color B, attach yarn at center back seam. Work sc evenly around the bottom edge of the bodice, placing inc sts at 5 evenly spaced points to reach 90 sc total. Join with sl st to first sc. (90 sc)
  3. Step 3Change to Color B at the start of this round. 90 stitches = 15 fan repeats of 6 stitches each.

Notes from the pattern

  • The same E-4 / 3.5 mm hook is used throughout the bodice, sleeves, collar, booties and headband, so there is no need to change hook size between pieces even though the fan shell skirt gauge differs from the flat single crochet gauge.
  • Mark the chain-3 bridges made during the bodice neckline shaping rows, since they later determine the 12 stitches picked up around each cap sleeve armhole (9 from the skipped row plus 3 from the bridge).
  • Work the recommended 5-inch swatch in single crochet before starting; a difference of even one stitch per inch against the stated 18 sts and 20 rows over 4 inches will shift the neckline width and how far the finished skirt flares.
  • The only colour change happens once, at the skirt foundation round, where Colour B is joined at the centre back seam; secure this join well since it sits directly under the ribbon at the waist.

The essentials

Rounds
41
Parts
9
Level
Intermediate
Time
11-17 hours
Hook
3.5 mm
Yarn
DK

Stitches you will use

  • Fan shell stitch worked in rounds Used for the skirt body; the pattern shifts between a setup row and two alternating rows, so watch that fans and single crochet anchors stay aligned once the rhythm repeats.
  • Top-down neckline shaping with chained sleeve bridges Used in the bodice rows where stitches are skipped and replaced with a chain to open each armhole; miscounting here throws off both the sleeve pickup and the front panel width.
  • Scalloped shell border (skip, 5 dc, skip) Repeated at the collar edge, sleeve cuffs and skirt hem; an uneven skip count on either side of each shell makes the scallops sit lopsided rather than lying flat.

Troubleshooting

The skirt scallops along the hem sit unevenly, with some fans noticeably wider than others.

This usually means the 90-stitch foundation round did not land on a full multiple of 6. Recount to confirm 90 single crochets (15 fan repeats) before beginning the fan shell rows.

The cap sleeve scallop border pulls tight around the armhole.

Fewer than the specified 12 stitches were likely picked up around the armhole opening. Recount to 9 stitches from the skipped row plus 3 from the chain bridge before working the scallop round.

The collar or skirt hem cups instead of lying flat.

This points to a tighter-than-stated gauge or a missed stitch in the skip-1/skip-2 pattern of the border. Re-check the gauge swatch against 18 stitches and 20 rows per 4 inches, and re-verify the skip count is followed exactly across the row.

Substituting yarn

Acrylic, DK weight
Produces a softer, more relaxed drape; the collar points and skirt shells will hold less structure than the mercerised cotton named in the materials list, though the same 3.5 mm hook still applies.
Wool-blend, DK weight
Gives crisper stitch definition on the fan shells and more give across the bodice, but the finished set will need hand washing rather than the easier care of a cotton blend.
Cotton-bamboo blend, sport weight
Lighter and slightly less warm than DK cotton; a hook a size or two up from the E-4 / 3.5 mm may be needed to match the stated gauge, and the skirt drape will be softer with more sheen.

Washing and care

  • Hand wash in cool water and lay flat to dry; mercerised cotton, as named in the materials, holds its shape well but hanging the wet skirt can stretch the fan shells under their own weight.
  • Store the finished set flat rather than on a hanger, with the waist ribbon threaded loosely rather than pulled tight, so the eyelet round keeps its shape between wears.

FAQs

Questions

Can this pattern be made larger than newborn to 3 months?

Yes, the pattern includes notes for sizing up through 12 months. The same foundation chain and stitch pattern are used, with row and round counts adjusted according to those notes.

What changes if a different DK yarn is used instead of mercerised cotton?

The collar and skirt will drape more softly and lose some of their structure, since the mercerised cotton named in the materials is what holds the shape of the collar and skirt without blocking. A stiffer cotton or cotton-blend substitute keeps the effect closest to the original.

Is the peter pan collar worked as part of the bodice or separately?

The collar is made separately in Colour B and attached to the finished bodice afterwards, rather than being worked directly into the neckline rows.

How does the ribbon attach at the waist?

It threads through the eyelets created at the waist using a safety pin or bodkin needle, and is finished with the unicorn novelty buttons for the decorative touch described in the intro.

How long does the full set take to complete?

The dress alone takes 8 to 12 hours, with the booties adding 2 to 3 hours and the headband and bow another 1 to 2 hours, for a total of 11 to 17 hours across the whole set.

These answers came from whoever first published the pattern, kept word for word.