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Five-pointed starfish hooded baby cocoon pattern

A hooded starfish baby cocoon worked in single crochet (UK: double crochet); US and UK terms given throughout.

Five-pointed starfish hooded baby cocoon pattern
Skill
Intermediate
Time
12-18 hours
Yarn weight
Worsted
Hook
5.5 mm

Intermediate

What the original write-up called it. Nothing here is graded again.

Worsted

What the sample was worked in. Any weight works; the size moves with it.

12-18 hours

What the original page reckoned. Your own pace is the one that matters.

About this pattern

This pattern makes a hooded starfish-shaped baby cocoon measuring approximately 22 inches point to point, suitable for newborns up to three months. Five crocheted arms join into a five-pointed star for the front and back panels, with a separate ribbed button band and a pointed hood added afterward. Rated intermediate, the project needs comfort with single crochet (UK: double crochet), seaming, and multi-part instructions, and takes 12 to 18 hours.

This hooded baby cocoon takes its shape from five tapering arms worked in single crochet (UK: double crochet), the same dense, even fabric used for most amigurumi and garment pieces. A raised flower cluster stitch — a modified half double crochet worked twice into the same space — adds the petal texture that gives the star body its dimension. The finished piece measures roughly 22 inches from point to point, sized for newborns up to three months old.

Construction works in stages rather than as one continuous piece. Five identical arm sections are crocheted first, then joined to form the five-pointed star for both the back and front panels, which are seamed together around the edges with wrong sides together so the right side — the side showing the flower cluster texture — faces outward on both surfaces. A ribbed button band, worked separately and sewn along the front opening, closes with four buttons, while the hood is crocheted as a curved, tapering tube and attached at the star's top point, finished with a ribbed brim that frames the face.

Materials

Yarn

  • Approximately 650 yards of worsted weight yarn, which is Category 4, in an ombre colorway graduating from mint or sage green at the top to medium teal or slate blue at the bottom.
  • You have a few options for achieving this ombre effect:
  • Option 1: Lion Brand Mandala Baby yarn cakes held double throughout. Each cake contains approximately 590 yards, so you will need two cakes. Choose a colorway that graduates from teal to blue.
  • Option 2: Paintbox Yarns Simply Aran in three colors. Purchase one skein each in Seafoam Green, Spearmint Green, and Mineral Blue. Transition colors gradually every 15 to 20 rows.
  • Option 3: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK held double. Purchase approximately 325 yards each of two complementary teal shades. Holding double creates that firm, cushioned texture you see in the photos.
  • Whatever yarn you choose, make sure it is soft enough for newborn skin. Look for labels that say baby-safe or superwash. Avoid scratchy fibers. The yarn needs enough body to hold those star points firm after blocking.

Hook

  • US Size I-9, which is 5.5 mm, or the size needed to match gauge.

Notions

  • At least 10 stitch markers
  • Yarn needle
  • Scissors
  • Four buttons, approximately 3/4 inch or 19 mm diameter, in white or pearl
  • Sewing needle and thread for attaching buttons
  • Blocking mat and pins
  • Spray bottle or basin for blocking

The list is the pattern's own wording.

Instructions

Every round is printed as the pattern wrote it, brackets and all. Open the key beside a round to see only the short forms that round uses.

Part 1: Back Star Panel Arms (Make 5)

Each arm starts wide at the base and tapers to a point at the tip. You will make 5 identical arms for the back panel.

Color placement: Begin in sage or mint. Transition to mid-teal at approximately Row 22, then to slate blue by Row 40. Your exact transition rows depend on your yarn choice.

Foundation: Chain 25.

  1. Round 1

    (RS): Single crochet in 2nd chain from hook and in each chain across. (24 sc)

    Key2
    sc
    single crochet. Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop so you have 2 loops on hook, yarn over and pull through both loops.
    RS
    right side, which is the side that faces outward when finished.
  2. Round 2

    (WS): Chain 1, turn. Single crochet in first stitch. Work (flower cluster in next stitch, single crochet in next stitch) 11 times. Single crochet in last stitch. (24 sts)

    Key1
    WS
    wrong side, which faces inward.
  3. Round 3

    Chain 1, turn. Sc2tog over first 2 stitches. Single crochet in each stitch across to last 2 stitches. Sc2tog. (22 sc)

    Key2
    sc2tog
    single crochet two together, which is a decrease. Insert hook into first stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. Insert hook into next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. You now have 3 loops on hook. Yarn over and pull through all 3 loops. This turns 2 stitches into 1.
    sc
    single crochet. Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop so you have 2 loops on hook, yarn over and pull through both loops.
  4. Round 4

    Chain 1, turn. Single crochet in first stitch. Work (flower cluster in next stitch, single crochet in next stitch) 10 times. Single crochet in last stitch. (22 sts)

  5. Round 5

    Chain 1, turn. Sc2tog. Single crochet across to last 2 stitches. Sc2tog. (20 sc)

    Key2
    sc2tog
    single crochet two together, which is a decrease. Insert hook into first stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. Insert hook into next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. You now have 3 loops on hook. Yarn over and pull through all 3 loops. This turns 2 stitches into 1.
    sc
    single crochet. Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop so you have 2 loops on hook, yarn over and pull through both loops.
  6. Round 6

    Chain 1, turn. Single crochet in first stitch. Work (flower cluster in next stitch, single crochet in next stitch) 9 times. Single crochet in last stitch. (20 sts)

  7. Round 7

    Chain 1, turn. Sc2tog. Single crochet across to last 2 stitches. Sc2tog. (18 sc)

    Key2
    sc2tog
    single crochet two together, which is a decrease. Insert hook into first stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. Insert hook into next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. You now have 3 loops on hook. Yarn over and pull through all 3 loops. This turns 2 stitches into 1.
    sc
    single crochet. Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop so you have 2 loops on hook, yarn over and pull through both loops.
  8. Round 8

    Chain 1, turn. Single crochet in first stitch. Work (flower cluster in next stitch, single crochet in next stitch) 8 times. Single crochet in last stitch. (18 sts)

  9. Round 9

    Chain 1, turn. Sc2tog. Single crochet across to last 2 stitches. Sc2tog. (16 sc)

    Key2
    sc2tog
    single crochet two together, which is a decrease. Insert hook into first stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. Insert hook into next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. You now have 3 loops on hook. Yarn over and pull through all 3 loops. This turns 2 stitches into 1.
    sc
    single crochet. Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop so you have 2 loops on hook, yarn over and pull through both loops.
  10. Round 10

    Chain 1, turn. Single crochet in first stitch. Work (flower cluster in next stitch, single crochet in next stitch) 7 times. Single crochet in last stitch. (16 sts)

  11. Round 11

    Chain 1, turn. Sc2tog. Single crochet across to last 2 stitches. Sc2tog. (14 sc)

    Key2
    sc2tog
    single crochet two together, which is a decrease. Insert hook into first stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. Insert hook into next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. You now have 3 loops on hook. Yarn over and pull through all 3 loops. This turns 2 stitches into 1.
    sc
    single crochet. Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop so you have 2 loops on hook, yarn over and pull through both loops.
  12. Round 12

    Chain 1, turn. Single crochet in first stitch. Work (flower cluster in next stitch, single crochet in next stitch) 6 times. Single crochet in last stitch. (14 sts)

  13. Round 13

    Chain 1, turn. Sc2tog. Single crochet across to last 2 stitches. Sc2tog. (12 sc)

    Key2
    sc2tog
    single crochet two together, which is a decrease. Insert hook into first stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. Insert hook into next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. You now have 3 loops on hook. Yarn over and pull through all 3 loops. This turns 2 stitches into 1.
    sc
    single crochet. Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop so you have 2 loops on hook, yarn over and pull through both loops.
  14. Round 14

    Chain 1, turn. Single crochet in first stitch. Work (flower cluster in next stitch, single crochet in next stitch) 5 times. Single crochet in last stitch. (12 sts)

  15. Round 15

    Chain 1, turn. Sc2tog. Single crochet across to last 2 stitches. Sc2tog. (10 sc)

    Key2
    sc2tog
    single crochet two together, which is a decrease. Insert hook into first stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. Insert hook into next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. You now have 3 loops on hook. Yarn over and pull through all 3 loops. This turns 2 stitches into 1.
    sc
    single crochet. Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop so you have 2 loops on hook, yarn over and pull through both loops.
  16. Round 16

    Chain 1, turn. Single crochet in first stitch. Work (flower cluster in next stitch, single crochet in next stitch) 4 times. Single crochet in last stitch. (10 sts)

  17. Round 17

    Chain 1, turn. Sc2tog. Single crochet across to last 2 stitches. Sc2tog. (8 sc)

    Key2
    sc2tog
    single crochet two together, which is a decrease. Insert hook into first stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. Insert hook into next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. You now have 3 loops on hook. Yarn over and pull through all 3 loops. This turns 2 stitches into 1.
    sc
    single crochet. Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop so you have 2 loops on hook, yarn over and pull through both loops.
  18. Round 18

    Chain 1, turn. Single crochet in first stitch. Work (flower cluster in next stitch, single crochet in next stitch) 3 times. Single crochet in last stitch. (8 sts)

  19. Round 19

    Chain 1, turn. Sc2tog. Single crochet across to last 2 stitches. Sc2tog. (6 sc)

    Key2
    sc2tog
    single crochet two together, which is a decrease. Insert hook into first stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. Insert hook into next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. You now have 3 loops on hook. Yarn over and pull through all 3 loops. This turns 2 stitches into 1.
    sc
    single crochet. Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop so you have 2 loops on hook, yarn over and pull through both loops.
  20. Round 20

    Chain 1, turn. Single crochet in first stitch. Work (flower cluster in next stitch, single crochet in next stitch) 2 times. Single crochet in last stitch. (6 sts)

  21. Round 21

    Chain 1, turn. Sc2tog. Single crochet in next 2 stitches. Sc2tog. (4 sc)

    Key2
    sc2tog
    single crochet two together, which is a decrease. Insert hook into first stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. Insert hook into next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. You now have 3 loops on hook. Yarn over and pull through all 3 loops. This turns 2 stitches into 1.
    sc
    single crochet. Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop so you have 2 loops on hook, yarn over and pull through both loops.
  22. Round 22

    Chain 1, turn. Work (flower cluster in next stitch, single crochet in next stitch) 2 times. (4 sts)

  23. Round 23

    Chain 1, turn. Sc2tog. Sc2tog. (2 sc)

    Key2
    sc2tog
    single crochet two together, which is a decrease. Insert hook into first stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. Insert hook into next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. You now have 3 loops on hook. Yarn over and pull through all 3 loops. This turns 2 stitches into 1.
    sc
    single crochet. Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop so you have 2 loops on hook, yarn over and pull through both loops.
  24. Round 24

    Chain 1, turn. Sc2tog. (1 sc) Fasten off, leaving a 12-inch tail for seaming. Checkpoint: Each completed arm should measure approximately 7 inches wide at the base and approximately 11 inches from base to tip.Make 5 identical arms total for the back panel.

    Key2
    sc2tog
    single crochet two together, which is a decrease. Insert hook into first stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. Insert hook into next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. You now have 3 loops on hook. Yarn over and pull through all 3 loops. This turns 2 stitches into 1.
    sc
    single crochet. Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop so you have 2 loops on hook, yarn over and pull through both loops.

Part 4: Button Band

The button band creates the front opening with a clean, professional finish.

Foundation: Chain 8.

  1. Round 1

    Single crochet in 2nd chain from hook and in each chain across. (7 sc)

    Key1
    sc
    single crochet. Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop so you have 2 loops on hook, yarn over and pull through both loops.
  2. Round 2

    Chain 1, turn. Single crochet in the back loop only of each stitch across. (7 sc)Repeat Row 2 until the ribbed strip measures approximately 18 inches long, or long enough to reach from the hood opening to the bottom point of the star.Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

    Key1
    sc
    single crochet. Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop so you have 2 loops on hook, yarn over and pull through both loops.

Part 5: Hood Body

The hood is worked in rows to create a curved tube that tapers to a point at the top.

Foundation: Chain 36.

  1. Round 1

    Single crochet in 2nd chain from hook and in each chain across. (35 sc)

    Key1
    sc
    single crochet. Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop so you have 2 loops on hook, yarn over and pull through both loops.
  2. Round 2

    through 30: Chain 1, turn. Single crochet in each stitch across. (35 sc) Begin decreasing for the pointed top:

    Key1
    sc
    single crochet. Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop so you have 2 loops on hook, yarn over and pull through both loops.
  3. Round 31

    Chain 1, turn. Sc2tog. Single crochet across to last 2 stitches. Sc2tog. (33 sc)

    Key2
    sc2tog
    single crochet two together, which is a decrease. Insert hook into first stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. Insert hook into next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. You now have 3 loops on hook. Yarn over and pull through all 3 loops. This turns 2 stitches into 1.
    sc
    single crochet. Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop so you have 2 loops on hook, yarn over and pull through both loops.
  4. Round 32

    Chain 1, turn. Single crochet in each stitch across. (33 sc) Continue alternating a decrease row and a plain row until 3 stitches remain.Final Row: Chain 1, turn. Sc3tog (insert hook in first stitch and pull up a loop, insert hook in second stitch and pull up a loop, insert hook in third stitch and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through all 4 loops). (1 sc)Fasten off.Fold the hood in half lengthwise with right sides together. Seam the back edge from the pointed top to create the hood shape. Turn right side out.

    Key1
    sc
    single crochet. Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop so you have 2 loops on hook, yarn over and pull through both loops.

Part 6: Hood Brim

The ribbed brim finishes the hood's face opening and frames baby's face. Step by step: Work the same ribbed pattern as the button band; Foundation: Chain 8.

  1. Round 1

    Chain 1, turn. Single crochet in back loop only of each stitch across. (7 sc)Repeat Row 2 until the ribbed strip measures approximately 13 inches, matching the hood's face opening circumference. Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. Attach the ribbed brim around the face opening of the hood.

    Key1
    sc
    single crochet. Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop so you have 2 loops on hook, yarn over and pull through both loops.

Making up

  1. Step 1Weave in all remaining ends securely. Block the completed cocoon by lightly misting it with water and pinning it flat on your blocking mat. Stretch the star points gently to create crisp, defined tips. Allow to dry completely.
  2. Step 2Give your finished cocoon a final inspection. Tug gently on the buttons to make sure they are secure. Check all seams.
  3. Step 3Your starfish baby cocoon is ready for its debut!

Notes from the pattern

  • Check gauge before starting: 14 single crochet (UK double crochet) stitches and 16 rows should equal a 4-inch square after blocking, or the star points will not hold their proportions.
  • Use at least 10 stitch markers to mark the five arm-to-arm joins and the colour transition rows (around Row 22 and Row 40 as a guide), since the exact transition rows shift with the yarn chosen.
  • The US I-9 (5.5mm) hook is a starting point only; swatch a 6-inch square first and size up or down until gauge matches.
  • Four buttons of about 3/4 inch (19mm) close the front opening; sew them on with a separate sewing needle and thread rather than yarn, for a flatter, more secure finish against baby's skin.
  • One flower cluster motif measures approximately 1.25 inches in diameter; check this alongside your stitch and row gauge before starting.
  • The right side of the work is the side showing the raised flower cluster texture, facing outward. When joining panels, place wrong sides together so the right sides face out on both surfaces.

The essentials

Rounds
31
Parts
4
Level
Intermediate
Time
12-18 hours
Hook
5.5 mm
Yarn
Worsted

Stitches you will use

  • Flower cluster stitch Used across the star's arm panels to create the raised petal texture; keep the first two loops relaxed before reinserting into the same stitch so the cluster doesn't flatten.
  • Decreasing (sc2tog) Shapes the pointed top of the hood from Row 31 onward; work each decrease snugly but not tight so the point comes to a clean tip.
  • Seaming and joining panels Joins the five arm sections into the star shape and unites the front and back panels; match row counts and colour transition points so seams sit flush and the ombre lines up.

Troubleshooting

The star points curl or won't lie flat after blocking.

This usually comes from tension that's slightly tight or from under-blocking; re-check the 4-inch gauge square and pin each point out firmly while damp, letting it dry fully before unpinning.

The colour fade looks patchy or stripes

Abrupt colour changes rather than a staggered transition cause this; move the transition over several rows as suggested, around Row 22 and Row 40, or alternate strands gradually when holding two yarns double.

The flower cluster motif sits flat

This happens when the loops are pulled too tight on the final step or the hook isn't reinserted into the same stitch for the second half; keep tension relaxed and double-check the stitch is worked twice into one spot.

Substituting yarn

Acrylic-wool blend, aran weight
Adds more structure for crisp star points but may need a slightly different hook than 5.5mm to keep the fabric soft against newborn skin; re-check gauge since aran weight sits between DK and worsted.
Cotton-blend, DK weight, held double
Gives a cooler, slightly firmer fabric with less drape than acrylic; held double as the pattern allows, it keeps the body structured, though yardage will likely need to increase since cotton has less give.
Superwash wool, worsted weight
Produces a softer, warmer fabric with sharper stitch definition for the flower cluster texture, though it needs careful hand blocking rather than machine drying; hook size and the 14-stitch, 16-row gauge should stay the same once matched.

Washing and care

  • Because the ombre effect can be built from acrylic yarn cakes, acrylic-blend aran, or DK held double, follow the care label of whichever yarn was chosen; most superwash-labelled options tolerate a gentle machine wash, but hand washing in cool water is the safer choice for a piece with buttons.
  • Reshape the star points by hand while the piece is still damp and dry it flat on the blocking mat rather than in a tumble dryer, then store it flat or loosely folded so the points don't crease.

FAQs

Questions

Can this pattern be made without the ombre colour effect?

Yes, a single solid worsted-weight colourway works for the whole piece. Simply skip the colour transition guidance for the arms and work the entire star in one colour.

How much yarn does the project actually need?

Approximately 650 yards of worsted weight (Category 4) yarn in total. This can come from held-double cakes, three separate aran skeins, or two DK shades held double.

What if gauge doesn't match using the I-9 (5.5mm) hook?

Gauge is 14 single crochet (UK double crochet) stitches by 16 rows per 4-inch square after blocking. Swatch a 6-inch square first and move up or down a hook size until it matches, since an off-gauge star won't hold its points.

Why does the pattern call for so many stitch markers?

least 10 markers are needed to track the five arm joins and the colour transition rows across the arms. Missing a transition point throws off the ombre fade.

How are the buttons used on the finished piece?

Four buttons, about 3/4 inch (19mm), fasten through the button band to close the front opening below the hood. Secure them with a sewing needle and thread, and check them during the final inspection.

These answers came from whoever first published the pattern, kept word for word.