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Amigurumi 14 rounds No account, no download

Crochet snake amigurumi with coral colourwork bands

A single crochet (UK double crochet) snake amigurumi pattern with coral banding and tapering tail shaping.

Crochet snake amigurumi with coral colourwork bands
Skill
Intermediate
Time
4-6 hours
Yarn weight
Worsted

Intermediate

What the original write-up called it. Nothing here is graded again.

Worsted

What the sample was worked in. Any weight works; the size moves with it.

4-6 hours

What the original page reckoned. Your own pace is the one that matters.

About this pattern

This pattern makes a long, coiled amigurumi snake worked in single crochet (US)/double crochet (UK), built onto the first fifteen rounds of a separate dragon body pattern. The tail tapers through two decrease rounds, and length is adjustable within marked round sections. A coral snake colourway alternates cream, black and orange bands. Stuffing is added gradually as the body extends, finishing by closing the tail hole and weaving in ends.

This amigurumi snake is built entirely in single crochet (UK: double crochet), the dense, all-purpose stitch that gives amigurumi its firm, stuffable fabric. The body continues from an established base — the first fifteen rounds are worked as part of a separate dragon pattern — before the snake's own shaping takes over, tapering from a wide midsection down to a narrow tail tip. The result is a long, coilable toy with the tight gauge needed to hold stuffing without gaps showing between stitches.

Construction runs as a single continuous spiral tube, worked in the round without joining, so no seam lines appear along the body. Increase and decrease rounds control the taper at the tail, while long stretches of plain rounds set the overall length; the total number of rounds can be shortened or extended within the 'total of X rounds' sections while keeping the two decrease rounds intact. Colour changes for the coral banding are worked cleanly at round boundaries, and light stuffing is added every few rounds as the tube grows, rather than stuffing only at the end.

Materials

  • Yarn in your main colour, plus cream, black, and orange for the coral snake colourway (weight and quantity as used in the Thor baby dragon pattern)
  • Crochet hook sized to match your yarn, as specified in the Thor baby dragon pattern
  • Safety eyes, in the size suggested by the Thor baby dragon pattern
  • Polyester fiberfill stuffing
  • Stitch marker
  • Yarn needle, for weaving in ends and closing the tail hole
  • Scissors

The list is the pattern's own wording.

Instructions

Every round is printed as the pattern wrote it, brackets and all. Open the key beside a round to see only the short forms that round uses.

Body

Work the baby Thor dragon pattern up to Round 15 before starting this pattern; this snake uses that pattern as its foundation.

Use the same eye size suggestions and materials listed in the Thor pattern.

Stop every 5 rounds or so to lightly stuff the body as it extends, so the snake maintains its shape and stays properly stuffed as it grows longer.

Fasten off leaving a tail, close the hole and weave in the tail.

  1. Round 16

    making sure you are at the bottom center, 3sc, (inc)x6, 3sc (18)

    Key1
    inc
    increase
  2. (18)
    Rounds 17–46

    18sc (for a total of 30 rounds)

  3. Round 47

    (7sc, dec)x2 (16)

    Key1
    dec
    decrease
  4. Rounds 48–52

    16sc (for a total of 5 rounds)

  5. Round 53

    (6sc, dec)x2 (14)

    Key1
    dec
    decrease
  6. Rounds 54–58

    14sc (for a total of 5 rounds)

  7. Round 59

    (5sc, dec)x2 (12)

    Key1
    dec
    decrease
  8. Rounds 60–64

    12sc (for a total of 5 rounds)

  9. Round 65

    (4sc, dec)x2 (10)

    Key1
    dec
    decrease
  10. Rounds 66–70

    10sc (for a total of 5 rounds)

  11. Round 71

    (3sc, dec)x2 (8)

    Key1
    dec
    decrease
  12. Rounds 72–76

    8sc (for a total of 5 rounds)

  13. Round 77

    (2sc, dec)x2 (6)

    Key1
    dec
    decrease
  14. Rounds 78–82

    6sc (for a total of 5 rounds)

Making up

  1. Step 1Once you've completed all the rounds and fastened off, weave in any loose ends securely.
  2. Step 2Close the final hole at the tail tip by threading the yarn tail through the remaining stitches and pulling tight before weaving it in.

Notes from the pattern

  • Choose a hook a size or two smaller than the yarn label suggests, as amigurumi relies on a tight fabric to keep stuffing from showing through the stitches.
  • Place a stitch marker in the first stitch of every round and move it up as work progresses, since the body is worked in a continuous spiral with no joining round.
  • Keep tension consistent and firm throughout, especially through the long runs of plain rounds, so the tube doesn't flare or narrow unintentionally along its length.
  • the coral snake colourway, count rounds carefully through the repeated cream, black and orange sequence, and stuff lightly every five rounds or so as the body extends rather than waiting until it is fully closed.
  • Color Variation - Coral Snake Design: Head: Black. Round 16: Cream. Repeat the following pattern 6 times: 2 rounds cream, 2 rounds black, 5 rounds orange, 2 rounds black. Finish using black. This color pattern creates the distinctive banded appearance of a coral snake.
  • You can adjust the length by adding or subtracting rounds in any of the sections marked 'for a total of X rounds,' while maintaining the decrease rounds as written to keep the proper tapering shape.

The essentials

Rounds
14
Level
Intermediate
Time
4-6 hours
Yarn
Worsted

Stitches you will use

  • Continuous spiral single crochet Used throughout the body with no joining slip stitch; without a stitch marker at the round start, it becomes easy to lose track of where each round begins.
  • Increase and decrease shaping (inc/dec) Appears at the wide start (round 16) and again at the tapering rounds toward the tail; work each increase or decrease at the exact stitch position given to keep the taper symmetrical.
  • Striped colourwork in amigurumi Needed for the coral snake variation's repeating cream, black and orange bands; change colour at the very first stitch of a round so the join stays hidden along the body's underside.

Troubleshooting

The tail end puckers or leaves a visible gap

This usually means the closing stitches weren't drawn tight enough; thread the yarn tail through the remaining stitches, pull firmly to close the hole, then weave in the end securely.

The body looks lumpy or unevenly filled along its length

Stuffing added all at once at the end tends to bunch up; add small amounts every five rounds as the tube grows instead, distributing it evenly before continuing.

Colour bands appear to spiral rather

This is a normal effect of continuous spiral crochet, exaggerated when a colour change starts mid-round; always begin the new colour on the first stitch of a fresh round to keep the bands as level as possible.

Substituting yarn

Acrylic, worsted weight
Closest match to a typical amigurumi yarn; keeps the stitch definition tight and the fabric firm enough to hold stuffing without changing hook size.
Cotton, DK weight
Produces a smaller, denser snake with less stretch; a smaller hook and firmer tension help stop stuffing from showing through the thinner fabric.
Wool-blend or acrylic, chunky weight
Makes a noticeably larger, faster-worked snake; a bigger hook is needed, and looser stitches mean stuffing more firmly to avoid gaps between bands.

Washing and care

  • Hand wash in cool water and avoid wringing; standard acrylic amigurumi yarn keeps its shape without felting but can flatten if machine washed or tumble dried.
  • Reshape the coiled body while still damp and dry flat away from direct heat, then store it loosely coiled rather than folded so the colour bands don't crease.

The photographs taken while this was being made

Every one was taken by whoever published the pattern, in the order the source listed them.

  • Crochet snake amigurumi with coral colourwork bands — photo 2
  • Crochet snake amigurumi with coral colourwork bands — photo 3

FAQs

Questions

Does the dragon pattern need to be finished first?

The first fifteen rounds forming the head come from that separate pattern and act as the foundation, so those need completing before starting round 16 here. The eye size and materials suggested for that head also apply to this snake.

How is the overall length of the snake adjusted?

Add or remove rounds within any section marked 'for a total of X rounds,' such as the long plain stretches, while leaving the decrease rounds exactly as written. This keeps the tapered shape correct no matter how long the finished body is.

How many colours does the coral snake version use?

Three colours are needed: cream, black and orange. Round 16 starts in cream, then a cycle of two cream, two black, five orange and two black rounds repeats six times before the piece finishes in black.

When should the body be stuffed?

Stuffing is added every five rounds or so as the body is worked, rather than all at once at the end. Filling gradually keeps the tube's shape even and makes it easier to reach inside while the opening is still wide.

What happens at the very tip of the tail?

After the last round is finished, the yarn tail is threaded through the remaining stitches and pulled tight to close the hole, then woven in. Any other loose ends should be secured at this stage as well.

These answers came from whoever first published the pattern, kept word for word.