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Plush kitten amigurumi with optional paw pads

Single crochet (UK double crochet) plush kitten amigurumi pattern, with both US and UK stitch names given.

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Plush kitten amigurumi with optional paw pads

Skill: Intermediate
Time: 4-6 hours
Yarn weight: Plush (Chenille)
Hook: 4.0 mm

Intermediate

What the original write-up called it. Nothing here is graded again.

Plush (Chenille)

What the sample was worked in. Any weight works; the size moves with it.

4-6 hours

What the original page reckoned. Your own pace is the one that matters.

About this pattern

This plush kitten amigurumi is worked mainly in single crochet (UK double crochet), with the body and head made as one continuous spiral and the arms and legs set in as the piece grows. It calls for a 4.0 mm hook, plush yarn, 14 mm safety eyes, a resin nose, and fiberfill stuffing, with only the ears needing separate sewing.

This plush kitten amigurumi is built almost entirely from single crochet (UK: double crochet), the dense, upright stitch that gives amigurumi its firm, huggable structure. Increases and invisible decreases shape the rounded head, tapering limbs and paw curves, while the ears use a small block of flat rows rather than the spiral used elsewhere. The chenille-style plush yarn softens the stitch definition, so the finished kitten reads as fuzzy and soft rather than sharply textured, in keeping with its cuddly, quick-make brief.

The body and head are worked as one continuous piece in a spiral, with the head begun directly after the body so no neck seam is needed. The arms and legs are made first as separate small pieces, then set into the body rounds as the body is built, keeping the work almost entirely seam-free. Only the ears, worked in flat rows, are stitched on afterwards, and the legs' starting tails are left long so they can be tacked to the body once the head is finished.

Materials

Yarn (Main Color): Plush/chenille yarn, approx. 120 g / 100 m weight (such as Himalaya Dolphin Baby, Wolans Banny Baby, or any comparable plush yarn) — approximately half a skein
Yarn (Accent Color): A small amount of the same plush yarn in a contrasting color for the paw pads (optional)
Yarn (Face Details): Black fingering-weight yarn (such as Yarn Art Jeans or equivalent) for embroidering the face

Hook

US G-6 / 4.0 mm

Safety Eyes

14 mm sparkle/trapezoid safety eyes — 2

Cat Nose

Resin cat nose, 15 × 8 mm — 1

Adhesive

Craft glue suitable for attaching the resin nose

Stuffing

Polyester fiberfill, approximately 100 g

Stitch Markers

2–3 to mark the beginning of rounds

Tapestry Needle

Wide-eye needle for sewing and weaving in ends
Long, sturdy hand-sewing needle: For cinching the face (use with strong cotton thread, such as a crochet cotton thread in a neutral color)
Scissors

The list is the pattern's own wording.

Instructions

Every round is printed as the pattern wrote it, brackets and all. Open the key beside a round to see only the short forms that round uses.

Arms (Make 2)

Round 1
5 sc in MR. (5)
Key2
MR
Magic Ring
sc
Single Crochet
Round 2
inc in each st around. (10)
Key1
inc
Increase (2 sc in the same stitch)
Round 3
sc in each st around. (10)
Key1
sc
Single Crochet
Round 4
dec, dec, sc in each of next 6 sts. (8)Stuff only the lower portion of the arm with fiberfill. Leave the upper half unstuffed.
Key2
dec
Invisible Decrease (2 sc worked together)
sc
Single Crochet
(5)
Round 5-9
sc in each st around. (8) [5 rounds total]The round should end at the side of the arm. The two decreases from Rnd 4 should sit on the inner face of the arm. Work slip-stitch adjustments if needed to reposition.Fold the arm flat and work 4 sc through both layers to close. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Key1
sc
Single Crochet

Legs (Make 2)

The paw pads are optional. If you'd prefer a single-color leg, follow the alternate Rnd 3 instruction below.

If working paw pads: Begin with the accent color.

Round 1
6 sc in MR. (6)
Key2
MR
Magic Ring
sc
Single Crochet

After Rnd 1, switch to the main color. Do not cut the accent color yarn — carry it.

Round 2
inc in each st around. (12)
Key1
inc
Increase (2 sc in the same stitch)
Round 3
(with paw pads): 1 sc in main color, then work the dc increase using the accent color for the yarn over and the main color to complete the stitch — repeat this combination 3 times; then 1 sc, inc repeat 3 more times. (18)
Key3
inc
Increase (2 sc in the same stitch)
dc
Double Crochet
sc
Single Crochet

After completing Rnd 3 with paw pads, secure and cut the accent color yarn.

Round 3 (alt)
(single color, alternate): 1 sc, inc repeat 6 times around. (18)
Key2
inc
Increase (2 sc in the same stitch)
sc
Single Crochet
(2)
Round 4-5
sc in each st around. (18) [2 rounds total]
Key1
sc
Single Crochet
Round 6
dec 5 times, sc in each of next 8 sts. (13)
Key2
dec
Invisible Decrease (2 sc worked together)
sc
Single Crochet
Round 7
dec 3 times, sc in each of next 7 sts. (10)Stuff only the lower portion (the paw/foot) with fiberfill. Leave the upper half unstuffed.
Key2
dec
Invisible Decrease (2 sc worked together)
sc
Single Crochet
(5)
Round 8-12
sc in each st around. (10) [5 rounds total]Work slip-stitch adjustments as needed so the round ends centered over the toe (approximately 3 slip stitches). Fold the leg flat and work 5 sc through both layers to close. Fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail of approximately 30 cm (12 inches) for attaching the leg to the body.
Key1
sc
Single Crochet

Ears (Make 2 — worked in flat rows)

Round 1
5 sc in MR (or 2 ch, 5 sc in 2nd ch from hook). (5) Turn.
Key3
ch
Chain
MR
Magic Ring
sc
Single Crochet
Round 2
ch 1, sc in each of next 2 sts, work 3 sc in next st (inc), sc in each of next 2 sts. (7) Turn.
Key3
inc
Increase (2 sc in the same stitch)
ch
Chain
sc
Single Crochet
Round 3
ch 1, sc in each of next 3 sts, then in the next stitch work (sc, hdc, sc), sc in each of next 3 sts. (9)Finish with a sl st to close the row neatly. Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail of approximately 30 cm (12 inches) for sewing.
Key4
sl st
Slip Stitch
hdc
Half Double Crochet
ch
Chain
sc
Single Crochet

Body & Head (worked as one piece)

Round 1
Body Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
Key2
MR
Magic Ring
sc
Single Crochet
Round 2
Body Rnd 2: inc in each st around. (12)
Key1
inc
Increase (2 sc in the same stitch)
Round 3
Body Rnd 3: 1 sc, inc repeat 6 times around. (18)
Key2
inc
Increase (2 sc in the same stitch)
sc
Single Crochet
Round 4
Body Rnd 4: 2 sc, inc repeat 6 times around. (24)
Key2
inc
Increase (2 sc in the same stitch)
sc
Single Crochet
Round 5
Body Rnd 5: 3 sc, inc repeat 6 times around. (30)
Key2
inc
Increase (2 sc in the same stitch)
sc
Single Crochet
Round 6
Body Rnd 6: sc in each st around. (30)
Key1
sc
Single Crochet
(30)
Round 7
Body Rnd 7 (join legs): Work 5 sc together with the left leg (hold the leg against the body and work through both layers), sc in each of next 12 sts across the belly, work 5 sc together with the right leg, sc in each of next 4 sts across the back; now work the tail: chain 13, then starting in the 2nd ch from hook sc in each of next 12 ch; sc in each of the remaining 4 sts across the back. (30 sc in the body round, plus the tail)Leave the yarn tails from the legs hanging on the outside — you will use them later to tack the legs to the body.
Key2
ch
Chain
sc
Single Crochet
Round 8
Body Rnd 8: sc in each of next 6 sts, dec, 2 sc, dec repeat 2 times, sc in each of next 14 sts. (27)
Key2
dec
Invisible Decrease (2 sc worked together)
sc
Single Crochet
Round 9
Body Rnd 9: sc in each st around. (27)
Key1
sc
Single Crochet
Round 10
Body Rnd 10: sc in each of next 5 sts, dec, 2 sc, dec repeat 2 times, sc in each of next 12 sts. (24)
Key2
dec
Invisible Decrease (2 sc worked together)
sc
Single Crochet
Round 11
Body Rnd 11: 2 sc, dec repeat 6 times around. (18)
Key2
dec
Invisible Decrease (2 sc worked together)
sc
Single Crochet
Round 12
Body Rnd 12: sc in each st around. (18)
Key1
sc
Single Crochet
Round 13
Body Rnd 13: 3 sc, dec repeat 2 times, sc in each of next 4 sts, dec, sc in each of next 2 sts. (15)
Key2
dec
Invisible Decrease (2 sc worked together)
sc
Single Crochet
Round 14
Body Rnd 14 (join arms): Work 4 sc together with the first arm (hold arm against the body, work through both layers), dec, sc in next st, work 4 sc together with the second arm, dec, dec. (12)Arms should sit directly above the legs. Work slip-stitch adjustments if needed to reposition.Stuff the body firmly with fiberfill, with extra fullness at the belly. You are now transitioning directly into the Head.
Key2
dec
Invisible Decrease (2 sc worked together)
sc
Single Crochet
Round 15
Head Rnd 1: inc in each st around. (24)
Key1
inc
Increase (2 sc in the same stitch)
Round 16
Head Rnd 2: 3 sc, inc repeat 6 times around. (30)
Key2
inc
Increase (2 sc in the same stitch)
sc
Single Crochet
Round 17
Head Rnd 3: 9 sc, inc repeat 3 times around. (33)
Key2
inc
Increase (2 sc in the same stitch)
sc
Single Crochet
(5)
Round 18-22
Head Rnds 4–8: sc in each st around. (33) [5 rounds total]
Key1
sc
Single Crochet
Round 23
Head Rnd 9: 9 sc, dec repeat 3 times around. (30)
Key2
dec
Invisible Decrease (2 sc worked together)
sc
Single Crochet
Round 24
Head Rnd 10: sc in each st around. (30)
Key1
sc
Single Crochet
Round 25
Head Rnd 11: 3 sc, dec repeat 6 times around. (24)Insert safety eyes between Head Rounds 7 and 8, with 6 stitches between the two posts. Add fiberfill to the head at this stage before the opening becomes too small.
Key2
dec
Invisible Decrease (2 sc worked together)
sc
Single Crochet
Round 26
Head Rnd 12: 2 sc, dec repeat 6 times around. (18)
Key2
dec
Invisible Decrease (2 sc worked together)
sc
Single Crochet
Round 27
Head Rnd 13: 1 sc, dec repeat 6 times around. (12)
Key2
dec
Invisible Decrease (2 sc worked together)
sc
Single Crochet
Round 28
Head Rnd 14: dec 6 times around. (6)Pull the remaining stitches closed, fasten off, and weave in the end.
Key1
dec
Invisible Decrease (2 sc worked together)

Making up

Step 1Tack the legs to the body. Using the long yarn tails left from each leg, sew the inner upper edge of each leg to the body at approximately Rounds 4–5 of the body. This keeps the legs from flopping outward. Weave in the tails once secure.
Step 2Cinch the face — Step 1 (eye indentations). Thread a long, sturdy needle with strong cotton thread. Insert the needle from below, entering between the last body round and the first head round. Following the cinching diagram provided with the pattern, pass the needle through points 1 → 2 → 3 → 4 → 5 → 6 → 7 → 4, pulling both thread ends evenly to create symmetrical eye indentations. Tie off with two secure knots. Repeat if a deeper indent is desired.
Step 3Cinch the face — Step 2 (muzzle indent). Using the same thread still threaded, pass the needle from point 1 to point 2 to draw in the muzzle area. Tie off with two knots. Repeat if needed.
Step 4Attach the nose. Trim the post from the resin cat nose if needed, then glue the nose into the muzzle indent created in Step 3. Allow to dry fully before handling.
Step 5Sew on the ears. Position each ear in a triangular shape, placing them between Rounds 7–8 and Rounds 11–12 of the head. Sew firmly using the yarn tails and a tapestry needle.
Step 6Embroider the face. Using black fingering-weight yarn threaded on a tapestry needle: Eyelashes — embroider just outside the outer edge of each eye, skipping one stitch from the eye's outer rim. Eyebrows — embroider between Rounds 9 and 11 of the head, leaving 4–5 stitches of space between the two brows. Whiskers (optional) — embroider radiating lines outward from either side of the nose.
Step 7Weave in all remaining ends.

Notes from the pattern

Work with the US G-6 / 4.0 mm hook throughout and keep stitches on the firm side, since plush yarn can obscure loose stitch definition and let stuffing show through.
Use 2–3 stitch markers to track the start of each round, as the body and head are worked in a continuous spiral with no joining slip stitch.
Keep tension consistent around the safety eye and nose placement points on the head so gaps don't open up once the pieces are inserted and the fibrefill pushes against them.
If working paw pads, carry the accent colour rather than cutting it after Leg Round 1; stuff the arms only in the lower portion, and stuff the body firmly with extra fullness at the belly.
This pattern is written in US crochet terminology.
The body and head are worked as one continuous piece in a continuous spiral (no joining slip stitch at the end of each round). Use a stitch marker to track the beginning of each round.
The arms and legs are crocheted directly into the body rounds — almost no assembly sewing is required. Only the ears are sewn on.
Stitch counts are given at the end of each round in parentheses: (##)
Gauge: The finished kitten measures approximately 17–18 cm (7 inches) tall using plush yarn and a G-6 / 4.0 mm hook. Gauge is not critical, but a tighter fabric will prevent fiberfill from showing through.
Stuff the legs and arms only in the lower section — leave the upper portion flat so they fold and join cleanly.
Safety eyes are inserted between Rounds 7 and 8 of the Head section, with 6 stitches between the posts. Insert them before closing Round 11.
Keep your tension firm throughout. Plush chenille yarn is wonderfully forgiving on the surface, but loose tension lets the fiberfill peek through the gaps between stitches. Work snugly — if you can see through the fabric when you hold it up to a light, go down half a hook size.
Use stitch markers generously, because this pattern is worked in a continuous spiral with no joining slip stitch.

The essentials

Rounds: 40
Parts: 4
Level: Intermediate
Time: 4-6 hours
Hook: 4.0 mm
Yarn: Plush (Chenille)

Stitches you will use

Invisible decrease (dec) Used throughout the arms, legs and body/head to shape curves without leaving visible holes; keep tension even so the two loops close cleanly.
Magic ring (MR) Starts the arms, legs and body; pull the tail firm before working the first round so no gap remains at the centre.
Colour-change increase for paw pads Appears in Leg Round 3, where the yarn over of the increase is worked in the accent colour and completed in the main colour; keep both colours carried at even tension to avoid puckering.

Troubleshooting

The arm doesn't fold flat when closing the top.

The two decreases from Round 4 aren't sitting on the inner face of the arm; work a slip stitch or two to reposition the round before flattening and closing with the 4 sc.

The legs flop outward instead of standing under the body.

This comes from loose or missing tacking stitches; use the long tails left from each leg to sew the inner upper edge to the body at approximately Rounds 4–5, then weave in once secure.

The paw pad colour looks uneven or blotchy.

Uneven tension on the yarn-over-in-accent-colour increase is the usual cause; keep the accent loop snug and the main-colour completion stitch even, carrying the unused colour loosely on the wrong side rather than cutting it.

Substituting yarn

Standard acrylic, worsted weight: Gives a smaller, less fuzzy kitten with crisper stitch definition; stuffing should be packed a little more firmly since smooth yarn reveals shaping more clearly.
Cotton or cotton-blend, DK weight: Produces a firmer, less huggable fabric and a smaller finished size; drop to a hook closer to 3.5 mm to keep stitches dense enough to hold the stuffing.
Chenille or velvet-style yarn, bulky weight: Creates a noticeably larger, plusher kitten; move up to a 5.0–5.5 mm hook and increase the stuffing amount to fill the bigger cavity.

Washing and care

Hand wash in cool water with a mild detergent, since plush/chenille yarn can shed or flatten if machine washed or exposed to heat.
Reshape gently while still damp and lay flat to dry away from direct heat or sunlight, then store the kitten somewhere dry to keep the plush texture from matting.

The photographs taken while this was being made

Every one was taken by whoever published the pattern, in the order the source listed them.

FAQs

Questions

Can the paw pads be left out?

Yes, the pattern gives a single-colour alternate for Leg Round 3 that replaces the two-colour increase with a plain single crochet increase repeated six times. The stitch count stays the same either way.

Why leave the leg tails long instead of weaving them in straight away?

Those tails are used afterwards to tack the inner upper edge of each leg to the body at approximately Rounds 4–5. Weaving them in early would remove the means of attaching the legs securely.

Is the body and head joined at the end of each round?

No, they are worked in a continuous spiral with no joining slip stitch, which is why stitch markers are needed to track where each round begins. The head follows directly on from the body with no seam.

How much of the arm needs stuffing?

Only the lower portion takes fiberfill; the upper half is left unstuffed so the arm can be folded flat for the 4 sc closure at the top.

What US/UK terminology should be noted before starting?

The pattern is written in US terms. In UK terms, the single crochet (sc) used throughout is called double crochet, and the double crochet (dc) used for the paw pad increase is called treble crochet.

These answers came from whoever first published the pattern, kept word for word.