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Chunky tiger amigurumi pattern in bulky plush yarn

Bulky-yarn tiger amigurumi worked in single crochet (UK double crochet); US and UK terms given.

Chunky tiger amigurumi pattern in bulky plush yarn
Skill
Intermediate
Time
6-9 hours
Yarn weight
Bulky
Hook
4 mm

Intermediate

What the original write-up called it. Nothing here is graded again.

Bulky

What the sample was worked in. Any weight works; the size moves with it.

6-9 hours

What the original page reckoned. Your own pace is the one that matters.

About this pattern

This is a stuffed tiger toy worked mainly in single crochet (UK double crochet) using bulky weight yarn and a 4 mm hook, finished with plastic half-bead eyes, a plastic nose and fibrefill stuffing. The body and head are worked in one continuous spiral piece; feet, legs, arms, four ears, a tail and a muzzle are made separately, then sewn on and stuffed as assembly proceeds.

The tiger amigurumi is a stuffed toy built almost entirely from single crochet (UK double crochet), the dense stitch that gives amigurumi its firm, sculptable surface. Feet, legs, arms, body, head, ears and tail are each worked as separate rounds or rows before assembly, with the contrast colour reserved for the foot soles and two of the four ears. Worked in bulky yarn on a 4 mm hook, the finished toy grows chunkier and faster than the same pattern in a finer weight, making it suitable for a crocheter already comfortable with amigurumi basics but new to plush-scale toys.

Construction follows a typical amigurumi order: feet and legs are made first and set aside, arms are shaped through four increase rounds, then the body and head are worked as one continuous piece across 33 rounds, widening and narrowing to form the head without a seam at the neck. Ears are the exception — worked flat in back-and-forth rows with a turning chain, then paired in main and contrast colour before being sewn on. Stuffing is added gradually as the body and head rounds close, rather than all at once at the end.

Materials

  • Yarn (Main Color): Himalaya Dolphin Baby, color 80316 — 2 skeins (100% polyester, Bulky weight, 120m/100g) Substitute: YarnArt Dolce color 778
  • Yarn (Contrast Color): Himalaya Dolphin Baby, color 80765 — 0.5 skein

Hook

  • E-4 / 4 mm

Stuffing

  • Polyester fiberfill

Safety eyes

  • Plastic half-bead eyes, 14 mm diameter — 2

Nose

  • Plastic nose, 18×20 mm — 1
  • Yarn needle / tapestry needle
  • Scissors
  • Clear craft glue

The list is the pattern's own wording.

Instructions

Every round is printed as the pattern wrote it, brackets and all. Open the key beside a round to see only the short forms that round uses.

Feet (Make 2)

Begin with contrast color yarn.

  1. Round 1

    Ch 7, starting in the 2nd ch from hook: 5 sc, 4 sc in one st, working along the opposite side of the foundation chain: 5 sc, 4 sc in one st. (18)

    Key2
    ch
    Chain
    sc
    Single Crochet
  2. Round 2

    5 sc, (inc) ×4, 5 sc, (inc) ×4. (26)

    Key2
    inc
    Increase (2 sc in same stitch)
    sc
    Single Crochet
  3. Round 3

    5 sc, (sc, inc) ×4, 5 sc, (sc, inc) ×4. (34)

    Key2
    inc
    Increase (2 sc in same stitch)
    sc
    Single Crochet
  4. Round 4

    5 sc, (2 sc, inc) ×4, 5 sc, (2 sc, inc) ×4. (42)Change to main color yarn.

    Key2
    inc
    Increase (2 sc in same stitch)
    sc
    Single Crochet
  5. Round 5

    BLO: 42 sc. (42)

    Key2
    BLO
    Back Loop Only
    sc
    Single Crochet
  6. Rounds 6–8

    42 sc. (3 rounds) (42)

    Key1
    sc
    Single Crochet
  7. Round 9

    5 sc, (2 sc, dec) ×4, 5 sc, (2 sc, dec) ×4. (34)

    Key2
    dec
    Invisible Decrease (insert hook in front loop of next 2 sts, yarn over, pull through both loops, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops)
    sc
    Single Crochet
  8. Round 10

    5 sc, (sc, dec) ×4, 5 sc, (sc, dec) ×4. (26)

    Key2
    dec
    Invisible Decrease (insert hook in front loop of next 2 sts, yarn over, pull through both loops, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops)
    sc
    Single Crochet
  9. Round 11

    5 sc, (dec) ×4, 5 sc, (dec) ×4. (18)

    Key2
    dec
    Invisible Decrease (insert hook in front loop of next 2 sts, yarn over, pull through both loops, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops)
    sc
    Single Crochet
  10. Round 12

    (sc, dec) ×6. (12)Close the opening and weave in the end.Rejoin contrast color yarn to Rnd 4 and work in FLO: 42 sc, sl st to join. Fasten off and weave in the end.

    Key5
    sl st
    Slip Stitch
    dec
    Invisible Decrease (insert hook in front loop of next 2 sts, yarn over, pull through both loops, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops)
    FLO
    Front Loop Only
    Rnd
    Round
    sc
    Single Crochet

Legs (Make 2)

  1. Round 1

    Ch 19, starting in the 2nd ch from hook: 18 sc, join into a round. (18)

    Key2
    ch
    Chain
    sc
    Single Crochet
  2. Rounds 2–14

    18 sc. (13 rounds) (18)Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew this end of the leg to the foot. Do not stuff. The opposite end (where you began) will be worked directly into the body.

    Key1
    sc
    Single Crochet

Arms (Make 2)

  1. Round 1

    6 sc in MR. (6)

    Key2
    MR
    Magic Ring
    sc
    Single Crochet
  2. Round 2

    (inc) ×6. (12)

    Key1
    inc
    Increase (2 sc in same stitch)
  3. Round 3

    (sc, inc) ×6. (18)

    Key2
    inc
    Increase (2 sc in same stitch)
    sc
    Single Crochet
  4. Round 4

    (2 sc, inc) ×6. (24)

    Key2
    inc
    Increase (2 sc in same stitch)
    sc
    Single Crochet
  5. Rounds 5–7

    24 sc. (3 rounds) (24)

    Key1
    sc
    Single Crochet
  6. Round 8

    (2 sc, dec) ×6. (18)

    Key2
    dec
    Invisible Decrease (insert hook in front loop of next 2 sts, yarn over, pull through both loops, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops)
    sc
    Single Crochet
  7. Round 9

    (dec) ×6, 6 sc. (12)

    Key2
    dec
    Invisible Decrease (insert hook in front loop of next 2 sts, yarn over, pull through both loops, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops)
    sc
    Single Crochet
  8. Rounds 10–24

    12 sc. (15 rounds) (12)Stuff only the lower (paw) section. Fold the piece in half and work 5 sc through both layers to close. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew arms to the body.

    Key1
    sc
    Single Crochet

Body and Head

  1. Round 1

    6 sc in MR. (6)

    Key2
    MR
    Magic Ring
    sc
    Single Crochet
  2. Round 2

    (inc) ×6. (12)

    Key1
    inc
    Increase (2 sc in same stitch)
  3. Round 3

    (inc) ×12. (24)

    Key1
    inc
    Increase (2 sc in same stitch)
  4. Round 4

    (3 sc, inc) ×6. (30)

    Key2
    inc
    Increase (2 sc in same stitch)
    sc
    Single Crochet
  5. Round 5

    (4 sc, inc) ×6. (36)

    Key2
    inc
    Increase (2 sc in same stitch)
    sc
    Single Crochet
  6. Round 6

    (5 sc, inc) ×6. (42)

    Key2
    inc
    Increase (2 sc in same stitch)
    sc
    Single Crochet
  7. Round 7

    (6 sc, inc) ×6. (48)

    Key2
    inc
    Increase (2 sc in same stitch)
    sc
    Single Crochet
  8. Round 8

    Join legs — 8 sc together with leg (working through both the body stitch and the open edge of the leg simultaneously), 16 sc, 8 sc together with leg, 16 sc. (48)

    Key1
    sc
    Single Crochet
  9. Rounds 9–15

    48 sc. (7 rounds) (48)

    Key1
    sc
    Single Crochet
  10. Round 16

    (6 sc, dec) ×6. (42)

    Key2
    dec
    Invisible Decrease (insert hook in front loop of next 2 sts, yarn over, pull through both loops, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops)
    sc
    Single Crochet
  11. Round 17

    (5 sc, dec) ×6. (36)

    Key2
    dec
    Invisible Decrease (insert hook in front loop of next 2 sts, yarn over, pull through both loops, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops)
    sc
    Single Crochet
  12. Round 18

    8 sc, (dec) ×6, 16 sc. (30)

    Key2
    dec
    Invisible Decrease (insert hook in front loop of next 2 sts, yarn over, pull through both loops, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops)
    sc
    Single Crochet
  13. Rounds 19–22

    30 sc. (4 rounds) (30)

    Key1
    sc
    Single Crochet
  14. Round 23

    (3 sc, dec) ×6. (24)

    Key2
    dec
    Invisible Decrease (insert hook in front loop of next 2 sts, yarn over, pull through both loops, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops)
    sc
    Single Crochet
  15. Round 24

    (dec) ×12. (12)

    Key1
    dec
    Invisible Decrease (insert hook in front loop of next 2 sts, yarn over, pull through both loops, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops)

The body is complete. Begin the head without breaking yarn — continue directly.

  1. Round 25

    (inc) ×12. (24)

    Key1
    inc
    Increase (2 sc in same stitch)
  2. Round 26

    (sc, inc) ×12. (36)

    Key2
    inc
    Increase (2 sc in same stitch)
    sc
    Single Crochet
  3. Round 27

    (5 sc, inc) ×6. (42)

    Key2
    inc
    Increase (2 sc in same stitch)
    sc
    Single Crochet
  4. Round 28

    (6 sc, inc) ×6. (48)

    Key2
    inc
    Increase (2 sc in same stitch)
    sc
    Single Crochet
  5. Round 29

    (7 sc, inc) ×6. (54)

    Key2
    inc
    Increase (2 sc in same stitch)
    sc
    Single Crochet
  6. Round 30

    (8 sc, inc) ×6. (60)

    Key2
    inc
    Increase (2 sc in same stitch)
    sc
    Single Crochet
  7. Rounds 31–34

    60 sc. (4 rounds) (60)

    Key1
    sc
    Single Crochet
  8. Round 35

    (8 sc, dec) ×6. (54)

    Key2
    dec
    Invisible Decrease (insert hook in front loop of next 2 sts, yarn over, pull through both loops, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops)
    sc
    Single Crochet
  9. Round 36

    (7 sc, dec) ×6. (48)

    Key2
    dec
    Invisible Decrease (insert hook in front loop of next 2 sts, yarn over, pull through both loops, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops)
    sc
    Single Crochet
  10. Rounds 37–38

    48 sc. (2 rounds) (48)

    Key1
    sc
    Single Crochet
  11. Round 39

    (6 sc, dec) ×6. (42)

    Key2
    dec
    Invisible Decrease (insert hook in front loop of next 2 sts, yarn over, pull through both loops, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops)
    sc
    Single Crochet
  12. Round 40

    42 sc. (42)

    Key1
    sc
    Single Crochet
  13. Round 41

    (5 sc, dec) ×6. (36)

    Key2
    dec
    Invisible Decrease (insert hook in front loop of next 2 sts, yarn over, pull through both loops, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops)
    sc
    Single Crochet
  14. Round 42

    (4 sc, dec) ×6. (30)

    Key2
    dec
    Invisible Decrease (insert hook in front loop of next 2 sts, yarn over, pull through both loops, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops)
    sc
    Single Crochet
  15. Round 43

    (3 sc, dec) ×6. (24)

    Key2
    dec
    Invisible Decrease (insert hook in front loop of next 2 sts, yarn over, pull through both loops, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops)
    sc
    Single Crochet
  16. Round 44

    (2 sc, dec) ×6. (18)

    Key2
    dec
    Invisible Decrease (insert hook in front loop of next 2 sts, yarn over, pull through both loops, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops)
    sc
    Single Crochet
  17. Round 45

    (sc, dec) ×6. (12)

    Key2
    dec
    Invisible Decrease (insert hook in front loop of next 2 sts, yarn over, pull through both loops, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops)
    sc
    Single Crochet
  18. Round 46

    (dec) ×6. (6)Fasten off, pull the opening closed, and weave in the end.

    Key1
    dec
    Invisible Decrease (insert hook in front loop of next 2 sts, yarn over, pull through both loops, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops)

Ears (Make 4 — 2 in Main Color, 2 in Contrast Color)

Worked in flat rows. Begin each new row with 1 turning chain (ch 1).

  1. Round 1

    Ch 2, 3 sc in the 2nd ch from hook. (3)

    Key2
    ch
    Chain
    sc
    Single Crochet
  2. Round 2

    Inc, sc, inc. (5)

    Key2
    inc
    Increase (2 sc in same stitch)
    sc
    Single Crochet
  3. Round 3

    Inc, 3 sc, inc. (7)

    Key2
    inc
    Increase (2 sc in same stitch)
    sc
    Single Crochet
  4. Rounds 4–5

    7 sc. (2 rows) (7)Fasten off the main color pieces and weave in ends. Hold one main color piece and one contrast color piece together and sc around the perimeter to join them. Turn the work and sc around once more. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.Sew ears to the head, positioned 3 stitches back from the center top. Leave 10 stitches between the ears.

    Key1
    sc
    Single Crochet

Tail

Begin with main color yarn.

  1. Round 1

    7 sc in MR. (7)

    Key2
    MR
    Magic Ring
    sc
    Single Crochet
  2. Rounds 2–3

    7 sc. (2 rounds) (7)Change to contrast color.

    Key1
    sc
    Single Crochet
  3. Round 4

    7 sc. (7)Change to main color.

    Key1
    sc
    Single Crochet
  4. Rounds 5–6

    7 sc. (2 rounds) (7)Change to contrast color.

    Key1
    sc
    Single Crochet
  5. Round 7

    7 sc. (7)Change to main color.

    Key1
    sc
    Single Crochet
  6. Rounds 8–25

    Continue repeating Rnds 5–7, alternating colors as established. (18 rounds) (7)Do not stuff. Fold the tail flat and work 3 sc through both layers to close. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew the tail in the round directly after where the legs were joined into the body.

    Key1
    sc
    Single Crochet

Muzzle

  1. Round 1

    Ch 7, starting in the 2nd ch from hook: 5 sc, 4 sc in one st, working along the opposite side of the foundation chain: 5 sc, 4 sc in one st. (18)

    Key2
    ch
    Chain
    sc
    Single Crochet
  2. Round 2

    5 sc, (inc) ×4, 5 sc, (inc) ×4. (26)

    Key2
    inc
    Increase (2 sc in same stitch)
    sc
    Single Crochet
  3. Round 3

    5 sc, (sc, inc) ×4, 5 sc, (sc, inc) ×4. (34)

    Key2
    inc
    Increase (2 sc in same stitch)
    sc
    Single Crochet
  4. Rounds 4–7

    34 sc. (4 rounds) (34)Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew the muzzle to the head, starting 3 rounds up from the neck, extending 6 rounds upward.

    Key1
    sc
    Single Crochet

Making up

  1. Step 1Sew each Leg to its corresponding Foot using the yarn tail, aligning the open end of the leg with the top of the foot. Use whipstitch for a secure join.
  2. Step 2Confirm the Legs are correctly positioned in Rnd 8 of the Body — they should be on opposite sides, 16 stitches apart.
  3. Step 3Begin stuffing the Body firmly as you close Rnds 23–24. Continue stuffing the Head section as you decrease from Rnd 35 onward. Stop adding fiberfill at Rnd 43 so closing is easy.
  4. Step 4Sew the Muzzle to the front of the Head , 3 rounds up from the neck seam, centered, extending 6 rounds upward.
  5. Step 5Glue the eyes (14 mm half-bead) just above the muzzle, with 8 stitches between them.
  6. Step 6Glue the nose (18×20 mm) centered in Rnd 3 of the muzzle.
  7. Step 7Using contrast color yarn, embroider a vertical line from the nose downward for several rounds. Add whiskers with short random stitches if desired.
  8. Step 8Embroider a fringe/fringe-style forelock: use stitch markers to plan strands starting at the center top, extending 5 rounds down. Space each strand 3 stitches from the edge. Work two strands of contrast color yarn per section and one strand of main color in the center of each section.
  9. Step 9Using main color yarn, embroider small white areas beside each eye for highlights.
  10. Step 10Sew the Arms to the sides of the body using the yarn tails, positioning them at approximately Rnds 16–18.
  11. Step 11Sew the Ears to the top of the head, 3 stitches back from center, 10 stitches apart.
  12. Step 12Sew the Tail to the back of the body in the round directly after the leg join.
  13. Step 13Embroider 3 small “claw” lines on each paw, spacing them 3 stitches apart.
  14. Step 14Weave in all remaining ends.

Notes from the pattern

  • Because the body, head, feet, legs and arms are worked in continuous spiral without joining, a stitch marker at the start of each round is essential to keep the count accurate, particularly across the 33 rounds of the body and head.
  • Contrast colour appears only in the foot soles (Rnd 1) and two of the four ears, so colour changes are limited to those two spots rather than occurring mid-round anywhere in the body.
  • Stuffing is added firmly while closing Rnds 23–24 of the body, continues through the head decreases from Rnd 35, and should stop by Rnd 43 so the final rounds stay easy to close; the legs are left unstuffed since one end is worked directly into the body.
  • Gauge is not critical for this project — consistent tension matters more than hitting an exact stitch gauge. Work tightly enough that stuffing doesn't show through the stitches.
  • The tiger can be worked in any two-colour combination — classic orange and black, or sunny yellow and brown — using the main colour for the body and the contrast colour for the foot soles, two of the four ears, and embroidered stripe details.

The essentials

Rounds
67
Parts
7
Level
Intermediate
Time
6-9 hours
Hook
4 mm
Yarn
Bulky

Stitches you will use

  • Continuous spiral single crochet (UK double crochet) Used throughout the feet, legs, arms and the 33-round body and head; no joining happens at the end of each round, so losing track of the round start is the main risk.
  • Amigurumi increasing and decreasing Seen in the arms' four increase rounds and the feet's early increase rounds; keep increase points evenly spaced around the round to avoid puckering or a lopsided shape.
  • Flat rows with a turning chain Used only for the four ears, worked back and forth over four rows in main and contrast colour; turn consistently each row so the two halves of each ear match before sewing them together.

Troubleshooting

The foot comes out lopsided rather than oval.

The increase of 4 sc in one stitch at each end of Rnd 1 needs to land in the same place on both the starting and opposite sides of the foundation chain; recount the 5 sc sections before each increase to keep both ends symmetrical.

The arms look shorter or narrower than the legs.

This is expected: the arms reach only 24 stitches around after Rnd 4, while the legs are worked at 18 stitches around from a longer 19-chain start, so the two limbs are proportioned differently by design rather than by error.

The body puckers or narrows unevenly

Stuffing added too early or unevenly before the neck decreases around Rnd 35 can bunch inside the narrowing rounds; keep stuffing light and even through the decreases and stop adding fibrefill by Rnd 43 as directed.

Substituting yarn

Acrylic, bulky (chunky) weight
Closest match to the pattern's yarn in thickness and stitch definition; the 4 mm hook and stated stuffing amount can be used without adjustment.
Cotton blend, aran or worsted weight
Thinner than the pattern's yarn, so the finished toy comes out noticeably smaller and less plush; drop to a 3.5–4 mm hook and stuff more firmly to compensate for the lighter fabric.
Wool blend, super bulky weight
Thicker than the pattern's yarn, producing a larger, softer toy with a looser fabric; move up to a 5–6 mm hook and use slightly less stuffing since the yarn itself adds loft.

Washing and care

  • The main and contrast yarns are 100% polyester, so hand wash in cool water and reshape the toy while still damp, avoiding hot water or a tumble dryer, which can flatten the fibre's loft.
  • Dry flat away from direct heat and store the finished tiger loosely rather than compressed, so the bulky yarn's texture and the ear shaping keep their form over time.

The photographs taken while this was being made

Every one was taken by whoever published the pattern, in the order the source listed them.

  • Chunky tiger amigurumi pattern in bulky plush yarn — photo 2
  • Chunky tiger amigurumi pattern in bulky plush yarn — photo 3

FAQs

Questions

What hook size does this pattern use?

A single E-4 / 4 mm hook is used for every part of the tiger, including the feet, legs, arms, body, head, ears and tail, so no hook changes are needed. Because the yarn is bulky weight, this hook size produces a dense, plush fabric.

How much contrast colour yarn is needed?

The materials list calls for half a skein of contrast colour, which covers the foot soles and two of the four ears. The main colour, used for everything else, needs two full skeins.

Are the legs stuffed separately before attaching them?

No, the legs are left unstuffed. The end where the leg began is worked directly into the body, while the opposite end is sewn to the foot with a whipstitch.

Why are the ears made differently from the rest of the toy?

The ears are the only flat piece in the pattern, worked back and forth over four rows with a turning chain at the start of each row, rather than in continuous spiral rounds like the other parts. Four ears are made in total, two in main colour and two in contrast, then paired and sewn on.

When should stuffing stop while working the body and head?

Stuffing begins firmly at Rnds 23–24 of the body, continues through the head decreases from Rnd 35, and should stop by Rnd 43 so the final rounds are easy to close. Adding too much fibrefill after that point makes closing the last stitches difficult.

These answers came from whoever first published the pattern, kept word for word.