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Top-down raglan baby dress with lavender lace skirt
A top-down raglan baby dress in single crochet (UK: double crochet), with US and UK stitch names given throughout.

- Skill
- Intermediate to Advanced
- Time
- 20-30 hours
- Yarn weight
- DK (3)
- Hook
- 3.5 mm
Intermediate to Advanced
What the original write-up called it. Nothing here is graded again.
DK (3)
What the sample was worked in. Any weight works; the size moves with it.
20-30 hours
What the original page reckoned. Your own pace is the one that matters.
About this pattern
This top-down baby dress works single crochet (UK: double crochet) through a raglan bodice, then moves into rounds for a lavender, cream-lace, and pink shell-stitch skirt, finished with appliqued daisies and a front button band. It fits babies of about 6 to 12 months, measuring roughly 18 inches around the chest and 17 inches long, and takes 20 to 30 hours, plus 4 to 6 hours for the daisies.
This design is a top-down baby dress built from the single crochet (UK: double crochet) family, using that stitch as the base fabric for the raglan bodice while shell, bobble, picot and lace stitches mark the transitions between sections. The yoke relies on single crochet raglan increases set at four points, and the skirt moves through contrasting textures - plain single crochet, openwork lace, and a scalloped shell border - all built on the same foundational stitch.
Construction begins at the neckline and works flat in rows, turning after each row, with raglan increases placed at four marked points until the underarms are reached. Sleeve stitches are then set aside while the body continues flat, before joining into rounds for the skirt. The skirt descends through a lavender daisy panel, a cream lace section, and a pink shell-stitch hem, finishing with a front button band at the neckline.
Materials
- Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK works beautifully here with its crisp stitch definition. Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton gives the skirt excellent drape without stretching. Scheepjes Catona produces gorgeously defined lace stitches if you prefer a finer mercerized cotton.
- Whichever you choose, avoid fuzzy or textured fibers. They will obscure those pretty daisies and muddy up the lace pattern. Smooth cotton shows off every stitch.
Yarn
- Yarn A (Cream/Off-White): approximately 300 yards of DK weight (#3) cotton or cotton-blend yarn
- Yarn B (Lavender/Medium Purple): approximately 200 yards of DK weight cotton
- Yarn C (Soft Pink/Light Mauve): approximately 50 yards of DK weight cotton
- Yarn D (Cream for daisy petals): approximately 30 yards, same as Yarn A works fine
- Yarn E (Yellow for daisy centers): approximately 10 yards of DK weight
Hooks
- US Size E-4 (3.5 mm) for the bodice and skirt main fabric
- US Size D-3 (3.25 mm) for ribbed cuffs and neckband
Notions
- 5 small flat buttons, approximately 3/8 inch diameter, white or pearlescent
- Yarn needle for finishing and attaching appliques
- At least 6 stitch markers
- Scissors
The list is the pattern's own wording.
Instructions
Every round is printed as the pattern wrote it, brackets and all. Open the key beside a round to see only the short forms that round uses.
Section 1A: Neckline Foundation and Raglan Setup
With Yarn B (Lavender) and smaller hook (D-3 / 3.25 mm), ch 58.
Foundation Row (WS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (57 sc)
Switch to Yarn A (Cream) and larger hook (E-4 / 3.5 mm).
- Round 1
RS, Raglan Setup Row Ch 1. Work as follows, placing stitch markers at the 4 raglan dividing points: Sc in first 8 sts (Right Front). Pm in next st. Work Raglan Increase Shell in marked st (sc, ch 1, sc). Pm in center ch-1 sp. Sc in next 6 sts (Right Sleeve). Pm in next st. Work Raglan Increase Shell. Pm. Sc in next 23 sts (Back). Pm in next st. Work Raglan Increase Shell. Pm. Sc in next 6 sts (Left Sleeve). Pm in next st. Work Raglan Increase Shell. Pm. Sc in last 8 sts (Left Front). Turn.Stitch count after Row 1: Right Front: 9 sc. Right Sleeve: 8 sc. Back: 25 sc. Left Sleeve: 8 sc. Left Front: 9 sc. Plus 4 raglan ch-1 spaces. Total: 59 sc plus 4 ch-1 spaces.
Key5
- ch
- chain, the foundation loop created by yarning over and pulling through
- sc
- single crochet, insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops (2 loops become 1)
- sp
- space
- pm
- place marker
- RS
- right side
- Round 2
(WS): Ch 1. Sc across all stitches, working sc into each ch-1 space at raglan points (do NOT increase on WS rows). Turn. (63 sc)
Key3
- ch
- chain, the foundation loop created by yarning over and pulling through
- sc
- single crochet, insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops (2 loops become 1)
- WS
- wrong side
- Round 3
RS, Increase Row Ch 1. Sc to 1 st before raglan marker, work Raglan Increase Shell in next st, move marker to new ch-1 sp. Rep from at each of the 4 raglan points. Sc to end. Turn. (71 sc)Each RS increase row adds 8 stitches total (2 at each of 4 raglan points).
Key5
- rep
- repeat
- ch
- chain, the foundation loop created by yarning over and pulling through
- sc
- single crochet, insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops (2 loops become 1)
- sp
- space
- RS
- right side
- Round 4
(WS): Ch 1. Sc across, working 1 sc into each ch-1 raglan space. Turn. (75 sc)
Key3
- ch
- chain, the foundation loop created by yarning over and pulling through
- sc
- single crochet, insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops (2 loops become 1)
- WS
- wrong side
- Round 5
RS, Increase Row Repeat Row 3 pattern. Turn. (83 sc)
Key2
- sc
- single crochet, insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops (2 loops become 1)
- RS
- right side
- Round 6
(WS): Sc across. Turn. (87 sc)
Key2
- sc
- single crochet, insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops (2 loops become 1)
- WS
- wrong side
- Round 7
RS, Increase Row Repeat Row 3 pattern. Turn. (95 sc)
Key2
- sc
- single crochet, insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops (2 loops become 1)
- RS
- right side
- Round 8
(WS): Sc across. Turn. (99 sc)
Key2
- sc
- single crochet, insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops (2 loops become 1)
- WS
- wrong side
- Round 9
RS, Increase Row Repeat Row 3 pattern. Turn. (107 sc)
Key2
- sc
- single crochet, insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops (2 loops become 1)
- RS
- right side
- Round 10
(WS): Sc across. Turn. (111 sc)
Key2
- sc
- single crochet, insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops (2 loops become 1)
- WS
- wrong side
- Round 11
RS, Increase Row Repeat Row 3 pattern. Turn. (119 sc)
Key2
- sc
- single crochet, insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops (2 loops become 1)
- RS
- right side
- Round 12
(WS): Sc across. Turn. (123 sc)
Key2
- sc
- single crochet, insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops (2 loops become 1)
- WS
- wrong side
- Round 13
RS, Increase Row Repeat Row 3 pattern. Turn. (131 sc)
Key2
- sc
- single crochet, insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops (2 loops become 1)
- RS
- right side
- Round 14
(WS): Sc across. Turn. (135 sc)
Key2
- sc
- single crochet, insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops (2 loops become 1)
- WS
- wrong side
- Round 15
RS, Increase Row Repeat Row 3 pattern. Turn. (143 sc)
Key2
- sc
- single crochet, insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops (2 loops become 1)
- RS
- right side
- Round 16
(WS): Sc across. Turn. (147 sc) Stitch distribution after Row 16: Right Front: 17 sc. Right Sleeve: 22 sc. Back: 39 sc. Left Sleeve: 22 sc. Left Front: 17 sc.Checkpoint: After Row 16, the bodice should measure approximately 3 inches from the neckline foundation row.
Key2
- sc
- single crochet, insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops (2 loops become 1)
- WS
- wrong side
Part Three: Waist Picot Border
This creates the pink bobble trim between bodice and skirt.
Attach Yarn C (Soft Pink) to the bottom-right corner of the bodice.
- Round 1
Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each of the 85 bodice bottom sts. Join ends with sl st. Fasten off. (85 sc)
Key3
- sl st
- slip stitch, insert hook, yarn over, pull through both loops at once
- ch
- chain, the foundation loop created by yarning over and pulling through
- sc
- single crochet, insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops (2 loops become 1)
- Round 2
Bobble Row Attach Yarn C. Ch 1. Sc in 1 st, work Bobble Stitch in next st. Rep from across. Fasten off. (approximately 42 bobbles alternating with 43 sc)
Key3
- rep
- repeat
- ch
- chain, the foundation loop created by yarning over and pulling through
- sc
- single crochet, insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops (2 loops become 1)
Section 4B: Upper Skirt (Lavender Daisy Panel)
Switch to Yarn B (Lavender).
- Round 1
through 14: Ch 1. Sc in each st around. Join with sl st. (119 sc each round) Fasten off Yarn B.
Key3
- sl st
- slip stitch, insert hook, yarn over, pull through both loops at once
- ch
- chain, the foundation loop created by yarning over and pulling through
- sc
- single crochet, insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops (2 loops become 1)
Checkpoint: The lavender panel measures approximately 2.5 inches tall.
Section 4E: Hem Shell Border
Switch to Yarn C (Soft Pink) and larger hook.
- Round 1
Ch 1. Sc in each st around. Join with sl st. (250 sc)
Key3
- sl st
- slip stitch, insert hook, yarn over, pull through both loops at once
- ch
- chain, the foundation loop created by yarning over and pulling through
- sc
- single crochet, insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops (2 loops become 1)
- (25)Round 2
Shell Border Ch 3 (counts as dc). Work 4 more dc in first st. Sk 4 sts, sl st in next st, sk 4 sts, 5 dc in next st. Rep from around. End with sk 4 sts, sl st in next st, sk 4 sts. Join with sl st. (25 shell repeats)
Key5
- sl st
- slip stitch, insert hook, yarn over, pull through both loops at once
- rep
- repeat
- ch
- chain, the foundation loop created by yarning over and pulling through
- dc
- double crochet, yarn over, insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops
- sk
- skip
- Round 3
Ch 1. Sl st in same st. Working into next shell: (sl st, ch 3, sl st) in each of 5 dc to create picot points. Sl st in sl st between shells. Rep from around. Join with sl st. Fasten off.
Key4
- sl st
- slip stitch, insert hook, yarn over, pull through both loops at once
- rep
- repeat
- ch
- chain, the foundation loop created by yarning over and pulling through
- dc
- double crochet, yarn over, insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops
- Round 4
Optional lavender accent Attach Yarn B. Ch 1. Sc in sl st between shells, ch 3, sc in same sl st. Rep from 25 times. Join with sl st. Fasten off.
Key4
- sl st
- slip stitch, insert hook, yarn over, pull through both loops at once
- rep
- repeat
- ch
- chain, the foundation loop created by yarning over and pulling through
- sc
- single crochet, insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops (2 loops become 1)
Section 1B: Underarm Join and Body Setup
- Round 17
(RS): Ch 1. Sc across 17 Right Front sts. Skip 22 Right Sleeve sts (place on holder). Ch 4 (underarm bridge). Sc across 39 Back sts. Skip 22 Left Sleeve sts (place on holder). Ch 4. Sc across 17 Left Front sts. Turn. (77 sc plus 8 ch)
Key3
- ch
- chain, the foundation loop created by yarning over and pulling through
- sc
- single crochet, insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops (2 loops become 1)
- RS
- right side
- Round 18
(WS): Ch 1. Sc across all sts and ch sts. Turn. (85 sc)
Key3
- ch
- chain, the foundation loop created by yarning over and pulling through
- sc
- single crochet, insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops (2 loops become 1)
- WS
- wrong side
- Round 19
through 22: Ch 1. Sc across all 85 sts. Turn. (85 sc each row) Checkpoint: After Row 22, your bodice should measure approximately 5.5 to 6 inches from the neckline edge.
Key2
- ch
- chain, the foundation loop created by yarning over and pulling through
- sc
- single crochet, insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops (2 loops become 1)
Section 1C: Front Button Band
With Yarn A and smaller hook, attach yarn at the top-right neck corner (RS facing). Work 1 sc in each row end down the right front edge. At the bottom-right corner, work 3 sc. Continue along the foundation chain of the neckline. At the top-left corner, work 3 sc. Work 1 sc in each row end up the left front edge. Fasten off.
Button Loop Row (Right Front): With Yarn A and smaller hook, RS facing, attach yarn at top right corner. Ch 1. Sc in first st. Sc in next 3 sts, ch 3 (button loop), sk 1 st. Rep from 4 more times. Sc to end. Fasten off.
This creates 5 button loops. Sew 5 buttons onto the left front edge, aligned with the loops.
Part Two: Neckline Band
The neckline foundation in Yarn B forms the neck accent. For additional definition, work 1 round of sc along the neck edge in Yarn B, then 1 round of sl st. Fasten off.
Section 4C: Skirt Increase Transition
Switch to Yarn A (Cream).
- Round 1
Increase Round (Transition): Ch 1. Sc in next 6 sts, inc in next st. Rep from 17 times. Join with sl st. (136 sc)
Key5
- sl st
- slip stitch, insert hook, yarn over, pull through both loops at once
- inc
- increase, work 2 sc in the same stitch
- rep
- repeat
- ch
- chain, the foundation loop created by yarning over and pulling through
- sc
- single crochet, insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops (2 loops become 1)
- Round 2
Plain Round Ch 1. Sc in each st around. Join with sl st. (136 sc)
Key3
- sl st
- slip stitch, insert hook, yarn over, pull through both loops at once
- ch
- chain, the foundation loop created by yarning over and pulling through
- sc
- single crochet, insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops (2 loops become 1)
- Round 3
Final Increase Round Ch 1. Sc in next 8 sts, inc in next st. Rep from 14 times. Sc in remaining 10 sts. Join with sl st. (150 sc)
Key5
- sl st
- slip stitch, insert hook, yarn over, pull through both loops at once
- inc
- increase, work 2 sc in the same stitch
- rep
- repeat
- ch
- chain, the foundation loop created by yarning over and pulling through
- sc
- single crochet, insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops (2 loops become 1)
Note: 150 divides evenly by 6 for the lace repeat.
Section 4D: Cream Lace Panel
- (50)Round 1
Lace Round 1: Ch 4 (counts as dc plus ch 1). Sk 2 sts, dc in next st, ch 1, sk 2 sts, dc in next st, ch 1. Rep from 24 more times. Join with sl st to 3rd ch of beginning ch-4. (50 dc, 50 ch-1 spaces)
Key5
- sl st
- slip stitch, insert hook, yarn over, pull through both loops at once
- rep
- repeat
- ch
- chain, the foundation loop created by yarning over and pulling through
- dc
- double crochet, yarn over, insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops
- sk
- skip
- (50)Round 2
Lace Round 2: Sl st into first ch-1 sp. Ch 5 (counts as dc plus ch 2). Dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 2. Rep from around. Join with sl st to 3rd ch of beginning ch-5. (50 dc, 50 ch-2 spaces)
Key5
- sl st
- slip stitch, insert hook, yarn over, pull through both loops at once
- rep
- repeat
- ch
- chain, the foundation loop created by yarning over and pulling through
- dc
- double crochet, yarn over, insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops
- sp
- space
- (150)Round 3
Lace Round 3: Sl st into first ch-2 sp. Ch 3 (counts as dc). Work 2 more dc in same sp. Ch 2, 3 dc in next ch-2 sp. Rep from around. Ch 2. Join with sl st. (150 dc, 50 ch-2 spaces)
Key5
- sl st
- slip stitch, insert hook, yarn over, pull through both loops at once
- rep
- repeat
- ch
- chain, the foundation loop created by yarning over and pulling through
- dc
- double crochet, yarn over, insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops
- sp
- space
- (100)Round 4
Lace Round 4: Ch 1. Sc in ch-2 sp, ch 3, sc in same sp. Rep from around. Join with sl st. (100 sc, 50 ch-3 loops)
Key5
- sl st
- slip stitch, insert hook, yarn over, pull through both loops at once
- rep
- repeat
- ch
- chain, the foundation loop created by yarning over and pulling through
- sc
- single crochet, insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops (2 loops become 1)
- sp
- space
- (250)Round 5
Lace Round 5: Sl st into first ch-3 loop. Ch 3 (counts as dc). Work 4 more dc in same loop. Ch 1, 5 dc in next ch-3 loop. Rep from around. Ch 1. Join with sl st. (250 dc, 50 ch-1 spaces)
Key4
- sl st
- slip stitch, insert hook, yarn over, pull through both loops at once
- rep
- repeat
- ch
- chain, the foundation loop created by yarning over and pulling through
- dc
- double crochet, yarn over, insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops
- Round 6
Lace Round 6: Ch 1. Sc in first dc of shell, sc in next 4 dc of shell, sc in ch-1 sp. Rep from around. Join with sl st. (300 sc)
Key6
- sl st
- slip stitch, insert hook, yarn over, pull through both loops at once
- rep
- repeat
- ch
- chain, the foundation loop created by yarning over and pulling through
- sc
- single crochet, insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops (2 loops become 1)
- dc
- double crochet, yarn over, insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops
- sp
- space
- Round 7
Lace Round 7: Ch 1. Sc2tog, sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog. Rep from 50 times. Join with sl st. (200 sc)
Key5
- sc2tog
- single crochet 2 together, a decrease that joins 2 stitches into 1
- sl st
- slip stitch, insert hook, yarn over, pull through both loops at once
- rep
- repeat
- ch
- chain, the foundation loop created by yarning over and pulling through
- sc
- single crochet, insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops (2 loops become 1)
- Round 8
Lace Round 8: Ch 1. Sc in next 3 sts, inc in next st. Rep from 50 times. Join with sl st. (250 sc)
Key5
- sl st
- slip stitch, insert hook, yarn over, pull through both loops at once
- inc
- increase, work 2 sc in the same stitch
- rep
- repeat
- ch
- chain, the foundation loop created by yarning over and pulling through
- sc
- single crochet, insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops (2 loops become 1)
Checkpoint: The skirt should measure approximately 10 to 11 inches from waist join. Hem circumference is approximately 50 inches.
Part Five: Daisy Applique Placement
Make 30 daisies total following the special stitch instructions. Block all daisies before sewing.
Bodice Daisies (6 total): Arrange in two columns of 3 daisies each, one column per side of the button band. Place the top daisy approximately 1 inch below the neckline, spacing each subsequent daisy 1 inch below.
Upper Skirt Daisies (24 total): Arrange in 3 horizontal rows within the lavender panel.
Row 1 (top): 8 daisies, evenly spaced around Row 2 (middle): 8 daisies, positioned in the gaps between Row 1
Row 3 (bottom): 8 daisies, aligned with Row 1 Sew each daisy with matching yarn, catching the center and outer petals. Allow petals to stand slightly raised.
Making up
- Step 1Weave in all yarn ends securely on the wrong side, working ends at least 1 inch in two directions. Sew buttons aligned with the button loops.
- Step 2Blocking makes a tremendous difference with this dress. Soak in cool water, press gently in a towel (do not wring), and lay flat to dry. Pin the skirt panels open to full width so the lace pattern sets beautifully. Allow to dry completely before moving.
- Step 3Trim any remaining threads, and your Lavender Garden Baby Dress is complete.
Notes from the pattern
- The pattern uses two hook sizes: the US E-4 (3.5 mm) for the main bodice and skirt fabric, and the US D-3 (3.25 mm) for the ribbed cuffs and neckband; swapping hooks at the wrong point will throw off the fit.
- least six stitch markers are needed, with four reserved for the raglan dividing points set in Section 1A; losing track of these makes the raglan increases hard to recover later.
- Cotton has almost no stretch, so the gauge swatch (20 sts and 22 rows per 4 inches) matters more than usual; a single stitch of difference across 4 inches changes the finished chest measurement noticeably.
- Colour changes move through five yarns labelled A to E across the bodice, skirt panels, and daisies; fasten off and weave in each colour as instructed rather than carrying yarn up the side, since the panels are worked in distinct rounds.
The essentials
- Rounds
- 37
- Parts
- 10
- Level
- Intermediate to Advanced
- Time
- 20-30 hours
- Hook
- 3.5 mm
- Yarn
- DK (3)
Stitches you will use
- Raglan shaping with stitch markers Appears in Section 1A and 1B, where four markers track the raglan increase points; recount stitches at each marker after every row to catch drift early.
- Joining a flat piece to work in the round Happens at the Underarm Join and Body Setup, where sleeve stitches are set aside and the body is joined for the skirt; watch for a twisted join on the first round.
- Three-dimensional daisy appliques Worked separately in Part Five and sewn onto the lavender panel; keep petal rounds even so the raised centre sits flat against the background.
Troubleshooting
The bodice cups or flares instead of sitting flat across the shoulders.
This usually means the raglan increase shells in Section 1A weren't placed at all four marked points, or a marker slipped; check the Row 1 count (59 sc plus 4 ch-1 spaces) and recount from the neckline if it doesn't match.
The lavender panel looks puckered or wavy rather than smooth.
A tightening or loosening gauge over the 14 rounds of Section 4B is the likely cause; recount to confirm 119 sc each round and block the panel flat before judging the fabric.
The bobble row at the waist comes out with more or fewer bobbles than expected.
This points to an incorrect stitch count in Row 1 of the Waist Picot Border; recount the 85 sc around the bodice bottom before starting the bobble row so the alternating pattern lines up evenly.
Substituting yarn
- Mercerised cotton, DK weight
- Gives the crispest stitch definition for the lace and daisy sections, closest to the yarns named in the materials list; hook sizes stay as written.
- Cotton-acrylic blend, DK weight
- Adds a little more give to the fabric and softens the drape of the skirt; because the blend has slightly more stretch than pure cotton, swatch again and consider a half size down in hook to hold the chest measurement.
- Bamboo-cotton blend, DK weight
- Produces a silkier sheen and a drapier skirt, but the softer fibre blurs fine detail, so the daisy petals and lace openwork may look less crisp; a smaller hook on those sections helps sharpen the stitches.
Washing and care
- Hand wash in cool water, as cotton holds its shape poorly if agitated or wrung; press gently in a towel to remove excess water rather than twisting.
- Lay flat to dry and pin the skirt panels open to their full width so the lace section keeps its blocked shape; store folded flat rather than hung, since cotton has little stretch to recover from a hanger's weight.
FAQs
Questions
Can the dress be resized for a different age?
The pattern is written to a fixed gauge of 20 sts and 22 rows per 4 inches, so the size is tied closely to that swatch. A different age range would need recalculated stitch counts throughout rather than a simple hook swap.
Is it possible to skip the daisy appliques?
Yes, the lavender panel in Section 4B is a complete, self-contained set of rounds in single crochet (UK: double crochet) on its own. Leaving off Part Five simply results in a plain lavender band instead of a decorated one.
How much time should be set aside for this project?
An experienced crocheter can expect to spend roughly 20 to 30 hours on the dress itself, with another 4 to 6 hours for the daisy appliques. Spreading the work over several weeks rather than one sitting is recommended given the length.
What should be checked before starting, given how firm cotton is?
A full gauge swatch in single crochet with Yarn A and the E-4 hook, washed and blocked, should confirm 20 stitches and 22 rows per 4 inches before casting on. Cotton has almost no stretch, so even a small gauge mismatch changes the finished chest measurement.
These answers came from whoever first published the pattern, kept word for word.